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> Stuffing Serial Bluetooth Module Inside C1k Casing, share your success stories ...
Da_Blitz
post Aug 4 2007, 12:19 AM
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I like the idea of raising the power but if you are going to power a drive can you PLEAS PLEAS reenforce the Z's power mechenism, i feel you might get resets otherwis with that type of loading

as for 2.6, did you load the ohci modules or the OTG ones as well, i have a feeling taht if you just load the host ones (ohci) then it should detect both, will give it a try tomorrow

its not that bad in terms of structual integrity, but if you dropped it you wolud regret it

anyone care to give me a reminder if angstrom is booting a kernel in /boot on the root fs? if it is i might compli e a kernel to give some things a go, if the second port isnt detected until OTG is activated then it might be a patch causing it
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louigi600
post Aug 4 2007, 03:59 AM
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QUOTE(Da_Blitz @ Aug 4 2007, 10:19 AM)
I like the idea of raising the power but if you are going to power a drive can you PLEAS PLEAS reenforce the Z's power mechenism, i feel you might get resets otherwis with that type of loading

Well I've a usb2 external 2.5" drive that gets powered just fine from a standard usb port (<=500mA) ... so should I not be ok as long as the mod can make the OTG deliver 500mA ?

I know that it will drain the batteries really fast .... but this is just for convenience when you do not want to hook up everything for just a few minutes HDU access.

Is there something else I should concider ?
Would I start blowing the internal SMD fuses ?

QUOTE
as for 2.6, did you load the ohci modules or the OTG ones as well, i have a feeling taht if you just load the host ones (ohci) then it should detect both, will give it a try tomorrow

What should the OTG modules be called ?

QUOTE
its not that bad in terms of structual integrity, but if you dropped it you wolud regret it

I've opened it up ... yea it will not fall appart on it's own but it might even not need to hit the floor to regret it.
QUOTE
anyone care to give me a reminder if angstrom is booting a kernel in /boot on the root fs? if it is i might compli e a kernel to give some things a go, if the second port isnt detected until OTG is activated then it might be a patch causing it

Cannot help much with Angstrom as I do not use it.
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Da_Blitz
post Aug 5 2007, 12:42 PM
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actually the reason i recommend a cap is so you dont blow a fuse, if you power the wifi card and the hard drive you will see some serious spikes (wifi is bursty in nature) so it will help protect your Z at the least (i mean are you too cheap to shell out the 20c for a capacitor)

will check the OTG module names latter
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louigi600
post Aug 6 2007, 01:54 AM
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Yes a capacitor would have been a good idea ... too late right now because I've already made the mod and closed the Z again ... but I'll open it up again as it is a good idea even though the 500mA output I now have will be insufficient for bothe wifi and HDU.

Anyway the mod was successfull so far. I have not yet tested the external HDU directly (wait for the capacitor first) but the wifi dongle (which was the NO. 1 motivation for this mod) worked fine.

The TK3850 datasheet link is broken (and I google unseccessfully) so I'm not sure if there are constraints on the output capacitance ?
I'm assuming that anything below 470uF will be fine anyway: if I can get a small enough 200uF >=10V tantalium electrolitic that's what I'll use (otherwirse the largest capacitance that can fit).
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Da_Blitz
post Aug 7 2007, 02:02 AM
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pics?

sounds about right for the cap

so is the second port recigniseda ll the time? and wich wifi card were you using again. whats the battery life like
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louigi600
post Aug 7 2007, 04:57 AM
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Pictures of what I did are on my home page ("ZElectronics" menu on the left and "OTG Power Boost" on the top) along with a description as to how to go about upening the C1K for those who fear this part (I know that's not for you Da_Bliz).

Exuce me but I cant figure out what you mena with this:
QUOTE(Da_Blitz)
so is the second port recigniseda ll the time?

I was using a digicom branded zd1211 and battery life was much better then what I get with my linksys CF wifi. Well it's not difficult to get more then 45 minutes (that's what I get with the linksys). What I did notice is that initially the battery drops rather fast to about 40% ... then it levels out to go for over 2 hours (but I did not time it precisely ... I will next time).
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Da_Blitz
post Aug 7 2007, 07:28 PM
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mmm, too much caffine hence the spelling

i remember you stated that unless something was plugged into the OTG port the other port was invisible, i was wondering if you solved that issue or if you just hijacked the OTG port instead

2 hours gives me a rule of thumb, thats basically what i wanted. i was wondering what the power draw was like and was expecting worse than that
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louigi600
post Aug 7 2007, 11:31 PM
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Well it looks like the usb modules are loaded only when something is plugged in (at least that's what happens with pdaxrom).
If I do an "lsmod" I see no usb modules at all nither the standard ohci-hcd nor the pxa27x_udc nor the usbcore when there is nothing plugged in.

If I just plug in the mini-a_2_a-socket the usbcore and ohci-hcd modules are loaded.

If nothing is in the OTG plug and I manually insert the usbcore and then the ohci_hcd I get errors when attempting to load the latter (maybe because the ID is free and hence it's in client mode).

Now the odd thing is that right now no matter what I doo I only seem to see just one usb bus. I'm trying to look back to where I posted that I could see bothe busses to examine if I was mistaken when I claimed that or if something has gone wrong since or whatever ... but I was unable to find the posting. I guess I might have been mistaken :-( {maybe I saw 2 devices and not 2 busses ... or maybe I looked when I had the external hub connected) ... I guess that with a little fiddling in the kernel sources one could see bothe for sure ;-) .

Concerning the power now:
well I've not measured exactly but I remember that before the mod the defice used to get turned onn and off. I expect this to mean that the dongle was drawing a little over the 200mA otg ... but not too much because it had the time to switch on.
I could make more accurate guesses if I timed precisely how much the battery lasts while using the wifi dongle.
Currently more then 2 hours is suggesting less then 450mA ... but that sounds like too much for the device bounces on OTG supply ... so I gues that if I timed precisely I'd get close to 3 hours.
I do not want to make mints of a cable ti make accurate reading with a tester ... but if I find scrap A plug and A socket I'll make a special cable for making accurate mesurements (which dew to the spiky nature of wifi dongle may be useless with my digital meter ... one would need analog meter to get a better feel of what the avarage current would be).
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Da_Blitz
post Aug 8 2007, 12:09 AM
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in this case i would take the battery capacity and divide it by run time, no need for a cable or anything else

i cant offer any advice about pdaxrom, havent used it for ages, howeer under angstrom it was always a simple case of loading ohci-hcd, perhaps if you can give us the tail of dmesg after loading the module so we can see why it wont insert itself

i hope you can see both busses but i guess you have it working now so it dosent warrent any more inspection (ie into the second connector)
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louigi600
post Aug 8 2007, 01:11 AM
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Yea ... I've already approzimated the Z to absorb around 225mA (under light use like mp3 playback) 1800/8=225 (I can get around 8 hours mp3 playback).
Ooops I think I did som bad calculation .... this is some better calculation:
So lowering the duration to 2 hours 40 mins would mean that the 3 times more current is drawn ...
so 225 for Z and 450 to wifi ...
but as I asid befor 450 seems to much for the bouncing stuff before the mod ... so I would expect accurate timing to be over 3 hours.

I'm not to fussed about what's happening right now with 2.6.16 because I hope pdaxrom will soon have a 2.6.21 or above kernel.
Anyway looking at dmesg i see some pxa27x-ohci messages when I insert the usb dongle ... but pxa27x-ohci is not module ... maybe a little tweeging in the /sys tree might get it working anyway. It's not an issue for me right now but I'm attaching the dmesg anyway.

Ok I now have the step 1) done ... but step 2) is scheduled ... so even if the hub I intend to sacrifice for the step 2) cannot manage usb-storage I still like to have internal wireless (which works fine with that hub) ...
Step 2) is not scheduled in the near future because first I want to reach a satisfactory stability on my Z without sacrifising flexibility (that's why I stick with pdaxrom ... what the hel I've recently become a pdaxrom devel).

Here's what lsusb produces:
# lsusb
Unknown line at line 5924
Unknown line at line 5925
Unknown line at line 5926
Unknown line at line 5927
Unknown line at line 5928
Unknown line at line 5929
Unknown line at line 5930
Unknown line at line 5931
Unknown line at line 5932
Unknown line at line 5933
Unknown line at line 5934
Unknown line at line 5935
Bus 001 Device 002: ID 1131:1001 Integrated System Solution Corp. KY-BT100 Bluetooth Adapter
Bus 001 Device 001: ID 0000:0000
#

You can see that the bluetooth module is inserted (and I'm actually using it to ssh to Z and get the output to paste it here ... look at my bluetooth management helper script on my home page: blue ... I've recently made the scanning feature more pawerfull then plain "hcitoo scan")

BTW: there is another things that makes estimation harder ... the 225mA I estimated is with LCD backlight off (mp3 playback with lid closed) ... while the wifi usb dongle measurements are made with the LCD on .... and the LCD power consumption is not negligable (the battery juice can vary upto, and maybe more then, 10% pretty much instantly between LCD on or off)
Attached File(s)
Attached File  dmesg.txt ( 7.1K ) Number of downloads: 4
 
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Da_Blitz
post Aug 8 2007, 07:00 AM
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must say i am impressed, as of late i have been using bluetooth alot more and have the plans and design for a curses bassed front end simmilar to the wince wizard (widcomm stack, not the microsoft one) to make creating connection eiaser

the only reason i held off is because i found the pand auto discovery and connect setting so i dont have to bother with mac addresses
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louigi600
post Aug 8 2007, 08:36 AM
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Yea .... I did not want to go into the SDP details so I made a script to do the MAC address handling ... I just get asked do you want to connect to 1, 2, 3 or n ?
the cript does the rest for me.
I know I'm a crocked guy and I prefer to spend much more time writing a stupid script than read documentation on a feature that would help me do the same thing .... but maybe when I started writing the thing (something like 4 years back) maybe bluez had not yed done anything about SDP ;-) ... or if it was there it was really poorly documented.
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utx
post Sep 8 2007, 12:10 PM
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I am trying to return to the original topic of this looong thread: Adding a serial module to BTUART.

I am trying to exactly reproduce, what Sharp developers intended to do and owners of SL-6000L or SL-6000W could help.

Are there any success stories on it? And in particular - is there enough space (1.9mm needed) between PCB and hard drive on SL-C3xxx models (I guess it might be - connector is CF2, HDD seems to be CF1).

As far as I read all threads and photos, there is my summary of needed changes:

Part: resistor array 4x22J (e. g. koaspeer.com is CN1E4KTBK220J)
Function: PXA270 data line resistors
Position: below metallic cover of processor near ground shield (the only open resistor array position)
Status: Open on SL-Cxxxx, required to add

Part: unknown array 4x? (probably resistors, tens of kiloohms)
Function: Data line grounding
Position: Very near the internal CF slot connector (below HDD).
Status: Open on SL-Cxxxx, present on all SL-6000 models (even models without Bluetooth), probably good to add

Part: Mitsumi WML-C19NHN (no antenna)
Function: Bluetooth module
Position: Below HDD. 3 sides with 10 pins (one with gap in the middle) fourth side with 2 pins
Status: Required to add. Optionally possible to add module with an antenna, but on SL-6000 there might be a problem with one soldering point below antenna.

Part: Zero resistor
Function: Reset
Position: Unknown, maybe even does not exist
Status: Probably not needed

Part: Capacitor, unknown capacity
Function: Antenna circuit
Position: First ground connection near module antenna pins
Status: Probably not needed, open even on SL-6000W, but soldered on similar place of WLAN antenna circuit of SL-6000L

Part: Resistor, unknown value (guessing 0-70ohms)
Function: Antenna circuit
Position: First jumper connection near module antenna pins
Status: Required for module without antenna

Part: Open position for capacitor
Function: Antenna circuit
Position: Second ground connection near module antenna pins
Status: Open erven on SL-6000W

Part: Resistor, unknown value (guessing 0-70ohms)
Function: Antenna circuit
Position: Second jumper connection near module antenna pins
Status: Required for module without antenna

Part: Antenna, unknown type
Function: Antenna
Position: Nine large soldering pins below HDD near PCB edge
Status: Required for module without antenna

Can anybody help with identification of missing components values.
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utx
post Sep 8 2007, 03:57 PM
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I found more parts, which has to be added:

It seems to be required to solder two step down circuits, each of them consists of one IC, three small resistors or capacitors and one bigger capacitor. One connected to BT module pins 2 should be 1.8V, second connected to pin 19 should e between 1.7 and 3.4V.

There is also one small resistor/capacitor at pin 21 (AIO[0]) and another on pin 4 (AIO[1]) - this one is connected with transistor, which switches Reset (pin 3).

Maybe SL-C6000x owner could help in detecting of these parts.

Please also take care on Blutooth module variants:

WML-C19[N=no antenna|A=with antenna][B=BCSP UART|H=H4 UART][N=no regulator|R=1.8V regulator integrated]

Note, that module WML-C19NHN (the one from SL-6000W) does not support deep sleep mode, so it is maybe implemented outside - most probably by turning step down circuits off.

It also means, that if you will use WML-C19NHR, you would be able to omit one step down circuit.

Also note, that WML-C19 modules are produced not only by Mitsumi, but also by Baracoda.

I still have no idea, why Sharp used WML-C19 (which integrates PIO and 13-bit audio convertor) and not simpler WML-C09 (which is pin incompatible).
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speculatrix
post Sep 9 2007, 01:11 PM
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Hi,
I'm, the guy who wrecked his 6000 trying to implant a bluetooth module (snapped a BGA ddram reassembling). Just one think to be very careful about is that the Mitsumi modules come with different pin pitches.

Here's my photo of the 6000's motherboard and the module I bought which turned out to be the wrong type.
http://www.zaurus.org.uk/images/6000_motherboard6.jpg

Somewhere I have a photo of the above with a ruler across it for scale, I'll see if I can find it.

The best I can do is this, which was the wrong module I was misled to buy.

Attached File  bluetoothmodule.png ( 832.48K ) Number of downloads: 17


I still have the module if anyone things they can use it.
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