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> Instructions For Adding Bluetooth To Sl6000
Mjolinor
post Nov 2 2005, 11:42 PM
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If your mate fails and you are in the UK then I'll have a look at it for you. I have never had one in bits as I only just got my first one but I do mend a lot of laptops for local shops, have mended loads of Ipaqs and Palms and I do have the stuff necessary like stereo microscopes and rework stations.

Don't even consider me until you have exhausted all other possibilities and don't expect miracles but cracked boards and components are usually fixable.

Your starting point should be to see if it syncs or if you run SSH can you still connect. The fact that it came on initially, pink then white then nothing doesn't suggest to me damage from being dropped unless the screen broke, what sort of backlight do they have? It sounds like a normal flourescent.

If it is the screen or backlight then unplugging the screen and backlight completely should allow it to boot normally and it may sync or allow SSH then, after removing hte new Bluetooth unit of course.
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speculatrix
post Nov 3 2005, 02:04 AM
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QUOTE(neuroshock @ Nov 2 2005, 06:48 PM)
QUOTE(speculatrix @ Nov 2 2005, 05:18 PM)
neuroshock,
You mentioned that your friend might be willing to do more? Which country are you in?

Eastern North Carolina, U S of A.

oh well. I've found someone in the local linux users group who has *some* surface mount expertise, so I will probably have to go with that. I think the bluetooth module will be much easier than the extra flash module.
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neuroshock
post Nov 3 2005, 03:56 AM
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QUOTE(speculatrix @ Nov 3 2005, 10:04 AM)
QUOTE(neuroshock @ Nov 2 2005, 06:48 PM)
QUOTE(speculatrix @ Nov 2 2005, 05:18 PM)
neuroshock,
You mentioned that your friend might be willing to do more? Which country are you in?

Eastern North Carolina, U S of A.

oh well. I've found someone in the local linux users group who has *some* surface mount expertise, so I will probably have to go with that. I think the bluetooth module will be much easier than the extra flash module.
*




From having a first hand look inside I must vehemently agree with you. Of the Nand/Flash mem and bluetooth hacks the bluetooth portion will DEFINITELY be the easiest. My friend even made the comment that the bluetooth soldering was even possible by a non-pro if he had a really good soldering iron with a very fine tip point and a steady hand. When looking at the memory upgrade area he mumbled something like: "THAT would need to be chemically affixed or sma mounted *mumble mumble (insert 4-letter word here) mumble- impossible without a sma machine *mumble mumble.* I have NO clue what a sma machine is and I may be misquoting him out of ignorance but he said it would be haaaard. The solder points for the memory upgrade are actually bunder and totally covered by the chip to be installed.

-NeuroShock
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Mjolinor
post Nov 3 2005, 04:25 AM
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I'm off to Boston in two weeks, the company I work for are based there smile.gif

Anyway, if the connector you are talking about is similar to the screen connector for an Ipaq then you have 0 chance of repairing it, I have tried on numerous occasions and it never ever works. Once the locking bar is cracked it will not hold the ribbon tight enough no matter how careful you are. The only way I have found to fix it is to remove the connector completely and solder the ribbon to the motherboard. I have never replaced a connector because the tight gits wanted $30 for it and it's maybe $2 worth. I don't mind anyone making a profit but that was obscene.

Do not be tempted to try any kind of epoxy on the existing connector you will trash it.

Post a picture of it, I have a bazillion old laptops here and there may just be one, you never know.
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DrWowe
post Nov 3 2005, 09:32 AM
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QUOTE(neuroshock @ Nov 3 2005, 05:56 AM)
However, I'm gonna have a SERIOUSLY difficult time producing the courage to let him or anyone break open my remaining 6k after this tragedy.

Maybe just promise to stand at least 6-8 feet away. Bring binoculars if you want to watch the details. dry.gif
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dirk
post Nov 3 2005, 02:24 PM
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QUOTE(neuroshock @ Nov 3 2005, 04:30 AM)
Well, I dug up everything I could find by searching the forums for "Dirk". He has made a total of 3 posts since joining the zug. The content of those posts are as follows:
........
Anyhow, it wasn't exactly the treasure trove of knowledge that I was hoping for but it's a start.  I've sent him a personal message requesting the part number for the Mitsumi module that he used.
I've also asked if he installed the blue LED and exactly what parts and method he used to do so. I WAS pleased to see in the link that he provided that he decided to go the "wire" route himself.


Sorry. I didn't received your personal message.

On my hack I used the Mitsumi WML-C20 module. I choosed this module, because it needs only one supply voltage (3.3V) and this type was still on stock at work smile.gif
But the pinout is different from the WML-C19 so I had to solder some wires.
The project isn't finished, because for powersaving reasons I will switch the supply voltage. At this time the power supply is hardwired to the internal 3.3V. My plan is to use a FET to control the power.
If you wan't the WMC-C19 module you have to solder 2 voltage regulators and some capacitors to supply the module.

Here are the missing components:


Except the power switching isssue and the missing blue led bluetooth works well on my Zaurus.

Cheers,

Dirk
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bgsfh
post Nov 3 2005, 05:01 PM
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Neuroshock, do you remember if there were open slots for two flash chips or just one? I am thinking that if we want to do the full upgrade to 128 megs we will need to buy two chips instead of one. Thanks.
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neuroshock
post Nov 3 2005, 05:46 PM
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QUOTE(bgsfh @ Nov 4 2005, 01:01 AM)
Neuroshock, do you remember if there were open slots for two flash chips or just one?  I am thinking that if we want to do the full upgrade to 128 megs we will need to buy two chips instead of one.  Thanks.
*


Yes,

There are two open slots for memory. There is a memory chip, an open space with surface mount contacts for another chip, another memory chip right next to that, and then another open space with surface mount contacts for another chip.

So originally it looks like it could have been populated with four chips instead of two. I'm not sure of how they originally planned to integrate the memory chips...It might have been that they had four "sockets" on the board with the original intent to have (4) 16mb chips but that by the time they reached actual production it was cheaper to purchase (2) 32mb chips. Ultimately the REAL question will not be if two more memory chips can be mounted on the board, but rather whether the memory controller can address the larger amount of memory. (Hopefully someone already knows the answer to this for sure.) If nobody knows right now then there's only one way to find out- mount 'em and try it.

Dirk,
Thank you VERY much for replying here in this forum- I have no clue as to why you didn't receive the PM- Not the first time that problem has occured for me though, very frustrating.

But at any rate thank you VERY much from all of us for replying so quickly and with such great information and pictures. Right now you're my hero, as you're the only person I've been able to verify that has completed this hack and has a working finished product. Hopefully the rest of us can follow you shortly, but a HUGE thanks for blazing a trail for us.

One thing I can add- to expand upon Guyhelm's description of the blue LED, even if you install the blue LED you have to have a clear plastic channel (kinda fiber opticish) to pull the light from the LED to it's appropriate position on the case. There is a black "dummy" version of the piece I'm talking about, (same size and shape as the clear pieces that go to the other 3 led's), that currently occupies the slot where we want a new clear one to be so the blue bluetooth led would show to theoutside of the case. I guess they're using is as something of a placeholder.

My two ideas on the best way to make/achieve a factory quality piece to replace the "dummy" is to either:

1. Buy a 6000 that has been "bricked", unless the whole device has been crushed there is really nothing that a dead 6000 could have done in it's death throes to ruin the piece we want. Then just steal the clear plastic piece from the 'bricked' 6000 and install it in place of the dummy and voila! A factory finish.

2. take the black "dummy" insert and make a mold of it with play-do or wax etc. then remove the insert and use the mold to cast a clear version- normal elmer's glue, possibly hot glue from a glue gun, etc. would make a good molded finished product. I've used this process in the past to make factory looking components for laptops etc. It takes time but if you're interested in doing a first class hack, why not go all the way?


Progress is being made- now hopefully my 6k can be raised from the dead so I can continue to participate. =\

Be Safe,

-NeuroShock

NOTE: Edited on 11-04-2005 for clarity.
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neuroshock
post Nov 4 2005, 05:04 AM
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QUOTE(dirk @ Nov 3 2005, 10:24 PM)
If you wan't the WMC-C19 module you have to solder 2 voltage regulators and some capacitors to supply the module.

Here are the missing components:


Dirk,

First of all thanks for your time in advance- It is generous for you to take the time to answer our questions. When you get some time to do so could you please tell us the exact number of Voltage Regulators and Capacitors, as well as thier numeric values so that we can make sure we purchase the correct components?
Thank you SO much for your help Dirk, we'd be dead in the water without you.

(I wish I could PM this, but that doesn't seem to be working for me for unknown reasons, so I hope you happen to revisit this thread soon!)

-NeuroShock


Boy am I glad he posted. If the C09 is identical to the C19 in every way except that it has an internal antennae, then my guess is that it will require the added 2 Voltage Regulators and Capacitors to supply the module the correct voltage as well. That would have been a real fly-in-the-ointment to get the module installed as we only thought it was just hooking the 6 contacts on the module up to make it work- it wouldn't have.
The good news is that we know the LOCATIONS now of where those components go thanks to Dirk's pictures.

I believe it would be in our best interest as a group to begin a web-page devoted exclusively to this mini-project. I can provide the web-hosting and bandwidth myself at danzweb.com- it's already paid for and I only use the mail subsytem, there's NO html content at all which is quite a waste. I'm really cruddy with design and my ability to create web-pages is dismal at best. So if someone will throw together an actual "page" for it I'll foot the bill. Just PM or email me and I'll email you all the pictures and known content/info we currently have to put there.
I also believe we should procure some white-papers/spec sheets on all of the components discussed thus far and post them, or links to them. Since reading Dirk's last post my 'neering buddy has decided that we surely do not have all the info we need before we proceed, not even a good list of all necessary components.

Good news btw! (And some humorous news to go with it..) In the mean time he located a vendor selling the clamping device and has one on order from them. (Mjolinor, you were SO right- they wanted $43usd for the thing- Highway Robbery! But I gladly paid it since it would not only correctly (and permanently) fix my $500 Zaurus... AND because it would allow me to continue with this project.)

The Humorous part I mentioned was that my family (where they got the money I will never know) has done a "buy it now" on a brand-new never-been-out-of-the-box Z6kL to replace my "dead" one it should arrive next week. They gave it to me as an early Christmas Present since I was so depressed about my other one dying. *sigh* Now the LAST thing I wanted for Christmas was a third 6k, but maybe I can ebay it so that I can get something I really want. But it was very heartwarming as a gift, we are on a VERY fixed income and to do this they must have been saving for a very very long time. It was definitely one of those "cry and hug yer family" kodak moments.

So- all's well that ends well!

Cheers All,

-NeuroShock

PS. One day I WILL make a short forum post. I promise.
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neuroshock
post Nov 4 2005, 05:08 AM
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Ummm. Just re-read my last post. Can someone tell from the picture what the numeric values, specs of the missing components are? Maybe he gave us the info we need and I just don't understand how to interpret it. I'll also ask my friend this same question- but won't see him until late tonight at the earliest.

-NeuroShock
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dirk
post Nov 4 2005, 05:22 AM
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QUOTE(neuroshock @ Nov 4 2005, 02:08 PM)
Ummm. Just re-read my last post.  Can someone tell from the picture what the numeric values, specs of the missing components are?  Maybe he gave us the info we need and I just don't understand how to interpret it.  I'll also ask my friend this same question- but won't see him until late tonight at the earliest.

-NeuroShock
*


I added the numbers to mark the power supply pins from the bluetooth module. The 2 testpoints near the numbers are the output of the missing voltage regulators.
The other voltage regulator used in the 6000 are Toko TK112. So I guess the missing ones are from the same type. I pinout is identical.

TK112

It seems ST has a second source, but I haven't tried to get samples.

Which bluetooth module do you have?

Cheers

Dirk
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Mjolinor
post Nov 4 2005, 08:17 AM
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Well done to that man that fixed it, I have spent hours trying. $43, it's worth it for a 6000 but definitely not for an Ipaq 3630 smile.gif
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guylhem
post Nov 5 2005, 07:15 AM
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Hello

regarding the cjips for an upgrade:
- we need 2 ram chips for each Z
- we need 1 flash chip for each Z

Regarding the plastic to bring the light out, your ideas seems the best one. I should receive a dead 6000L for experimental surgery (waiting for it...). I can certainly send you one of its plastic bits.

Guylhem
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BarryW
post Nov 5 2005, 12:33 PM
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Hey guys, for the light pipe, you can use a piece of toslink cable for surround sound systems. It's just really thick optical cable. I used some on my hacked orinoco gold card, works great. I'll post some picks later. Also for the guys in the states, don't know about europe, you can get the fiber optic light add-on things for mini-mag lights, same stuff, but alot cheaper. http://www.niteize.com/productdetail.php?c...8&product_id=68
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loc4me
post Nov 5 2005, 02:58 PM
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Regarding the WML-C09-AHR chip that Guylhem recomened. Does anyone (DIRK) know if that chip is able to just be mounted/soldered and go. Will it work with out the voltage regulators and such. Or does it even need them.

I have also contacted segor.de about the WML-C09-AHR chip. They are very good about replying to my emails which is great b/c i cant read there website. Shipping is very expensive to the US though. i am thinking about shipping to the UK where my mother is visiting for couple weeks then have here bring it back for me.

-mark
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