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> What Headphone With Microphone For The Cxx00?
chiark
post Oct 14 2005, 03:07 AM
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Oh, that's a shame sad.gif . I thought that the RH1 was listed on trisoft as working with the 1000/3x00, but upon checking again it seems it is not sad.gif .

Update! Have found the resistance values for RH2. 330, 470, 680, 910,1.5k,3.3k,18k. There's schematics around too which I'm just trying to verify...
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chiark
post Oct 14 2005, 07:57 AM
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Update to the update wink.gif

Well, I'm quite frankly appalled at the thought of spending $90 on rhe RH2 given that it contains about $1 of components, or less...

...so I'm building my own biggrin.gif . Parts have been purchased, and are less then $10, and now there's the challenge of building it too. It'll not be as sleek as the RH2, but then again that just adds to its geek cred.
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tomisako
post Oct 15 2005, 01:48 PM
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Just got Sennheiser's mini headset (Sennheiser PC 110).
The speaker quality isn't really for music but this is made for travel & mobile use.
First plug got 2,5m (works great with older Z models) and after that there's also volyme controller&mic on/off thing and it has 2x3,5m plugs.
Noted that when volyme is adjusted down there's still sound...
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bam
post Oct 15 2005, 05:18 PM
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hey creative labs had a remote for like 20.00usd, bet you could modify that for a remote, it has all the functions that are listed in the schematics and it looks slick smile.gif
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chiark
post Oct 16 2005, 12:38 AM
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Bam, thanks for the tip - I'll check it out as mine is looking a little, er "home grown"!

http://us.creative.com/products/product.as...=&product=11211
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pelrun
post Oct 18 2005, 05:30 PM
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If the CE-RH2 resistances are different to the CE-RH1's, then the schematic Da Blitz posted won't work on any Z smile.gif It appears to have the RH2 GND/KEY wiring, but with the RH1 resistances!

Be careful you get the GND and KEY connections the right way around. On the RH1 GND is the second ring on the jack, and KEY is the sheath. On the RH2 it looks like these are swapped. (Left and right are always tip and first ring.)

If you plug your remote into your Z and get clicking and buzzing noises in your headphones when you press a button (and no response from the Z) then you've gotten them the wrong way around.

I've got my own (second generation) remote for my C860 working pretty well, and it's a damn sight tinier than my first one (which was really inconvenient and never got used.) Five-way surface mount tactile joyswitches are really useful! I'll have to get around to posting photos soon...
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chiark
post Oct 18 2005, 11:06 PM
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Funny you should mention a 5 way surface mount joystick: that's what I bought for the job. Just over £1...



I then went back on Monday to get this...


Now I just need to wire it together. I've found the schematic on a Japanese site: the RH2 has 7 buttons rather than 6 but other than that it's largely the same biggrin.gif
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pelrun
post Oct 19 2005, 02:43 AM
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Heh - that's the *other* one I got a couple of. Yikes the shafts are small! Almost got those caps as well but didn't in the end - which kinda makes the sticks impractical.

The joyswitch I'm using has a larger centred stick and doesn't need a cap at all (although I might build one when I put together a better casing.) That and a second tactile button I swiped from a surplus handsfree kit was all I needed...

...almost. Finding decent thin four-core wire is HARD! I lucked out with that handsfree kit though - the cable on it was perfect biggrin.gif
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chiark
post Oct 19 2005, 06:54 AM
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sounds good - any pics of the other stick?
I'm using a 4 core microphone cable from Maplins in the UK.
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Da_Blitz
post Oct 19 2005, 05:47 PM
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did i forget to mention that the values were wrong?, oh well the site i got this off used a NES controller as the case and plugged it in for use with his nes emulator, it was a good ida, he had the schematic for both on his site but i downlaoded the wrong one and forgot the website sad.gif
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pelrun
post Oct 19 2005, 06:20 PM
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QUOTE(chiark @ Oct 19 2005, 02:54 PM)
sounds good - any pics of the other stick? 
*

Here you go:



It's got essentially the same footprint as the other one.
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MONVMENTVM
post Oct 21 2005, 07:56 AM
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QUOTE(chiark @ Oct 14 2005, 12:07 PM)
Oh, that's a shame sad.gif .  I thought that the RH1 was listed on trisoft as working with the 1000/3x00, but upon checking again it seems it is not sad.gif .

Update!  Have found the resistance values for RH2.  330, 470, 680, 910,1.5k,3.3k,18k.  There's schematics around too which I'm just trying to verify...
*


i am also interested to build a rh2. probalbly i will buy this zen micro remote posted above. it should be no problem to modificate it because we just have to change the resistors. i couldnt find any schematic of this one but i am sure that it has to be very similar to the rh* remotes. i cannot imagine how else to build a control that is cheap to produce. the way with the resistors is the smallest, cheapest and easiest to build... thats why i think the zen micro remote should be the same. and if it is not, its also no problem because i have the case of the remote and the switches... so i can build something else inside so that this works.
a thing to mention is that the ground of the plug is really swapped on rh2 (to rh1).

But the thing which would be nice to know before buying this zen remote is: where do you have the resistance values from? are you sure they are correct? (i mean these ones: 330, 470, 680, 910,1.5k,3.3k,18k)

EDIT: because someone mentioned that also the switches are swapped (and as i know the stop and play are switched): this is not a real problem because if you build this remote control. because if you press the "stop" button (for example), but the players starts to play music then you know that these 2 switches are really swapped. ok but this is no problem: you just have to swap the resistor from the "stop" switch with the resistor from the "play" switch. The only problem (which could occur) is that the values may not be correct. there would be also a possibility to make it: with a potentiometer.
that means: you just would need the plug which connects to the zaurus and the potentiometer. if you turn the potentiometer (i.e. it starts with 50ohms) and you arrive to the right value (i.e. 330 ohms) something should happen with the zaurus (if you have kino2 or something like this running). for example the volume gets up. so you know that 330 ohms means "volume up". if you turn again the potentiometer slowly than sometime again should happen something on the zaurus (the next value would be 470 as you said before). that has to be done until you have all switches. i think that this would take some time but it would work.

what i am also wondering about is that the value of 330 ohm also appears on the rh1. on the rh1 it would be the "back" button. that means that if someone has a rh1 and swaps ground of the plug and the key connections, ONE of the switches should operate something on the zaurus.

cheers,
MONVMENTVM
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MONVMENTVM
post Oct 22 2005, 08:10 AM
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Ok... ive bought the creative zen micro remote and opened it. it seems to be an easy play to make it working with the zaurus. first it looked a bit messy but with help of a magnifying glass and a multimetre i managed to find all the traces and their functions. I think this was the hardest part of it because of the tiny traces etc... but i found out that the schematics of remotes are nearly the same, just the C1 is not available on the creative remote (but i will add this... it may work better).
The only thing to do now is to solder the old resistors out of the remote and the ones needed for the zaurus in. if it doesnt work i will also solder out the 620k resistor (wich is parallel to the switches) and put in the 18k instead (i couldnt find anything abouth the seventh resistor of the rh2 as it is not available in rh1... but i think it is also just parallel to the switches like the 620k in the creative remote). if you do not really know what i mean: look into these schematics and read again... then you should understand what i mean.

original schematic of the Creative remote:
Attached File  Creative_Remote.JPG ( 44.44K ) Number of downloads: 166


schematic of the modded Creative remote + infos:
Attached File  Modded_Creative_Remote.JPG ( 1.55MB ) Number of downloads: 250


i have to add that i couldnt test if it works because i bought the remote just today and also ordered the resistors today... they should arrive next week and i hope that i can make the remote work until the end of next week. i will post details if i get more. if you have any questions feel free to ask me.

hope this could help someone,
MONVMENTVM
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chiark
post Oct 22 2005, 11:33 AM
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Good work! i didn't like the look of the creative in the end and am building my own.
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MONVMENTVM
post Oct 22 2005, 12:59 PM
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yeah but the problem is that it might get bigger than the creative because it is not that easy to make such a small device without machines. and it is also nearly ready to work... just need to change the resistors and thats all...

cheers
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