Instructions For Adding Bluetooth To Sl6000 Options

[guylhem]

Update on 07-06-06:
Attention - It seems that the module needed is not a C09 but a C19 - Speculatrix is inquiring on this. Please do not purchase a C09.


Hello

As I promised long ago, here are some instructions to add bluetooth to your SL6000 Zaurus.

1. Purchase a WML AHR C09 from Segor.de
2. Open your zaurus
3. See the attached picture of a Zaurus without Bluetooth, compared to a Zaurus with Bluetooth
4. Solder the chip accordingly. Note : the long line and the big X are for the antenna. The AHR C09 has an antenna built it, so don't bother.
5. Install bluez, start with:

hciattach /dev/ttyS2 csr 115200
hcid -f /etc/bluetooth/hcid.conf
sdpd

This will hopefully start bluetooth and lit the blue led.

Then:
hcitool scan
to try to find your cellphone
sdptool browse cellphone_mac_addres
to find the serial port (usually 1)
rfcomm connect 0 cellphone_mac_address serial_port

this way /dev/rfcomm0 will be your cellphone

6. Enjoy the cool hack, and wait for the next upgrade (921 kbps bluetooth)

Guylhem

Attached File(s)

 without_bluetooth.jpg ( 111.38K ) Number of downloads: 915
 with_bluetooth.jpg ( 101.05K ) Number of downloads: 857

 

[guylhem]

Please note it has been untested since ATM I'm out of WML C09
Yet others have solder different WML modules and reported success. This module is just easier to find and add, since it has the same dimensions.

Guylhem

Attached File(s)

 tosa_bluetooth.jpg ( 147.96K ) Number of downloads: 354

 

[neuroshock]

Please note it has been untested since ATM I'm out of WML C09 
Yet others have solder different WML modules and reported success. This module is just easier to find and add, since it has the same dimensions.

Guylhem

Guyhelm,

Many questions. I have a friend that is an electronics engineer and is going to attempt this Bluetooth Hack for me. He's itching to get started and after he'd gone through all the info I had to get him he dumped a load of questions on me that he said he'd need answered before he can/will continue...so here's what I need to know to proceed. Feel free to drop me either answers or links that I can go to find out for myself, (I know you've gotta be swamped and a bit frustrated right now- TWO rc releases and another on the way in the matter of 7 days or so should wipe out anyone! I want to take the least of your time as possible.)

1. You mentioned others had soldered in different modules and reported success can you tell me what those other modules are?

2. There seems to be some confusion concerning the "blue led". I've read in one place that on 6000L's the blue led is NOT already mounted on the board, you seem to be saying above that it IS already on the board. Do you know if that will need to be added?

3. If it does need to be soldered in along with the BT module where precisely is the location of the blue led on the board? Can you provide a picture?

4. Even if it's not already on the board, will the hack work without installing the blue led?

5. He wants to be completely sure that someone has done this successfully at least once before. I told him that you said it would definitely work, but he pointed out (correctly to my embarassment on all sides) that you actually said it "should" work, not that it definitely would. Can you shed more light here? (I promise to read your posts more carfully too! As much work as you put into this i'm completely embarrased to admit I didn't even take the time to read carfully.)

6. He seems to think that it would be safer and easier from his perspective to solder wires from the surface mounts on the board and then solder them in place on the module. He says that not only is it easier from a soldering perspective but that if faster/better modules are found in the future it would be very simple to snip the wires and resolder them to the new module. He did say that it wouldn't be as "pretty" with the wires, but it sure doesn't bother me since it will be inside the case, out of view. He says that unsoldering a surface mounted component from a board often mangles the board or at the very least makes it much more difficult to resolder the new component. So his question is- how much room is there for the module to fit, is there enuf room for some tiny wires as well?

7. While he agreed that the antenna would not be essential, he implied that installing an antenna may extend the range etc. So, has anyone else who has tried this used/obtained a module with an antenna that you know of? Can an antenna be added to this module?

8. Finally as with the poster right before me he pointed out that the part number of the module you have pointed us to is not the same number as the module pictured. What is the difference between the two, or does it matter?

*whew* I'm truly sorry about the length/weight of this post, but it's getting down to the wire, (no pun intended), and I've got to scratch up answers before he'll proceed.

The GOOD news is that if we have success he may be willing to do the procedure on a few more! I haven't asked him if he meant that he would do it for free, or if he would charge- but knowing him I'm sure he wouldn't charge much even if he did. So if anyone else is interested feel free to message me after we find out if we can really make it work or not. I'll post a bazillion pics and include a documentary whether it succeeds or fails. Even if it fails maybe someone else can benefit from our experience with it.

Thanks Guyhelm!

-NeuroShock

PS If anyone besides Guyhelm would like to point us to some links, feel free to do so! I'll take any snippet if info I can on this.

[guylhem]

1.  You mentioned others had soldered in different modules and reported success can you tell me what those other modules are?

look on the forums - dirk who is working on a 2.6 kernel for the tosa used one

2.  There seems to be some confusion concerning the "blue led".  I've read in one place that on 6000L's the blue led is NOT already mounted on the board, you seem to be saying above that it IS already on the board.  Do you know if that will need to be added?

it is not on the board. you will also need white translucent plastic to conduct the light to the front panel, instead of the black plastic you have

3.  If it does need to be soldered in along with the BT module where precisely is the location of the blue led on the board?  Can you provide a picture?

can't for now

4.  Even if it's not already on the board, will the hack work without installing the blue led?

it will

5.  He wants to be completely sure that someone has done this successfully at least once before. I told him that you said it would definitely work, but he pointed out (correctly to my embarassment on all sides) that you actually said it "should" work, not that it definitely would.  Can you shed more light here? (I promise to read your posts more carfully too! As much work as you put into this i'm completely embarrased to admit I didn't even take the time to read carfully.)

dirk did that. i will try that on a dead 6000 i should receive soon, if i can find a way to feed it power via direct motherboard soldering, to try to practice other surgery on it

6.  He seems to think that it would be safer and easier from his perspective to solder wires from the surface mounts on the board and then solder them in place on the module.  He says that not only is it easier from a soldering perspective but that if faster/better modules are found in the future it would be very simple to snip the wires and resolder them to the new module.  He did say that it wouldn't be as "pretty" with the wires, but it sure doesn't bother me since it will be inside the case, out of view. He says that unsoldering a surface mounted component from a board often mangles the board or at the very least makes it much more difficult to resolder the new component.  So his question is- how much room is there for the module to fit, is there enuf room for some tiny wires as well?

if he uses stripping wire, yes

7.  While he agreed that the antenna would not be essential, he implied that installing an antenna may extend the range etc. So, has anyone else who has tried this used/obtained a module with an antenna that you know of? Can an antenna be added to this module?

the wml ahr c09 has an integrated antenna - that's not an issue

8.  Finally as with the poster right before me he pointed out that the part number of the module you have pointed us to is not the same number as the module pictured.  What is the difference between the two, or does it matter?

integrated antenna. it matters if you want good reception

The GOOD news is that if we have success he may be willing to do the procedure on a few more!  I haven't asked him if he meant that he would do it for free, or if he would charge- but knowing him I'm sure he wouldn't charge much even if he did.  So if anyone else is interested feel free to message me after we find out if we can really make it work or not.  I'll post a bazillion pics and include a documentary whether it succeeds or fails.  Even if it fails maybe someone else can benefit from our experience with it.

that'd be great for fellow 6000 users. personally, i'm still waiting on the chips for the memory/flash upgrade attempt.

i've many fun projects, and little time unfortunately

guylhem

[neuroshock]

Well, I dug up everything I could find by searching the forums for "Dirk". He has made a total of 3 posts since joining the zug. The content of those posts are as follows:

********************************************************************
dirk
Posted on: Jun 16 2005, 06:37 AM

Recently I soldered a Mitsumi Bluetooth module into my Sl-6000. This works very well.

A picture is available here http://www.do13.de/openzaurus/pictures/tosa_bluetooth.jpg

This project isn't finished. The switching of the supply voltage is missing.
If this step is done I will provide some further information.

Cheers
Dirk
********************************************************************
dirk
Posted on: May 10 2005, 08:39 AM

QUOTE(guylhem @ Apr 26 2005, 09:23 PM)
segor.de : WML AHR C09

6 wires and you're done (TX RX CTS RTS GND 5V)

I'am also interested in soldering a bluetooth module into my Sl-6000. Do you know the pinout of the pads for the internal module?

Dirk
********************************************************************
dirk
Posted on: Apr 13 2005, 07:57 PM

QUOTE
can anyone give an idea when (or even if ) 2.6 will be available on the 6000?


2.6 for the sl-6000 is in a early stage. Only a few drivers are ready:

- Keyboard
- Nand
- Display
- Backlight
- PCMCIA
- IRDA
- SD/MMC
- USB client

Things which needs to be ported:

- AC97 (Sound / Touchscreen)
- USB -Host (WLAN)
- Charging stuff
- Bluetooth
- Expansion jacket
- Some issues with suspend / resume

So this kernel isn't really usable at this time. All these patches are available in openembedded.

Cheers,
Dirk
********************************************************************


Anyhow, it wasn't exactly the treasure trove of knowledge that I was hoping for but it's a start. I've sent him a personal message requesting the part number for the Mitsumi module that he used. I've also asked if he installed the blue LED and exactly what parts and method he used to do so. I WAS pleased to see in the link that he provided that he decided to go the "wire" route himself.

My major concern with using his experience as a precedent is the ambiguity of his post on the subject. He says to begin with that "this works very well", and that makes me think he had a solid finished product. However he then in the same posts says "This project isn't finished. The switching of the supply voltage is missing. If this step is done I will provide some further information." and I don't know if he means that the switching of the supply voltage is a necessary step he still needs to finish in order to have a finished product, or if that was just something "extra" that would better the performance, (such as give greater range etc.) It's not very encouraging that he never provided the further information that he hoped he would be able to.

At any rate, my friend was elated at finding out most of the details (such as the blue led being non-essential to the working product) etc. but reiterated that he wishes to see that a finish product was installed AND definitely worked in conjuction with a few peripherals- such as a bt phone or keyboard/mouse before he is willing to start working on the first 6000L. Being that he is my only pheasible way to get this done, I'm REAAAAALLY hoping I can get word back from Dirk soon.

Again, I'll let everyone know how things go as we progress.

Thanks Guyhelm- as always you've been a HUGE source of knowledge (folks like you absolutely amaze me- your cross-discipline knowledge is truly astonishing!)

Be Safe Everyone,

-NeuroShock

[dirk]

Well, I dug up everything I could find by searching the forums for "Dirk". He has made a total of 3 posts since joining the zug. The content of those posts are as follows:
........
Anyhow, it wasn't exactly the treasure trove of knowledge that I was hoping for but it's a start.  I've sent him a personal message requesting the part number for the Mitsumi module that he used.
I've also asked if he installed the blue LED and exactly what parts and method he used to do so. I WAS pleased to see in the link that he provided that he decided to go the "wire" route himself.

Sorry. I didn't received your personal message.

On my hack I used the Mitsumi WML-C20 module. I choosed this module, because it needs only one supply voltage (3.3V) and this type was still on stock at work
But the pinout is different from the WML-C19 so I had to solder some wires.
The project isn't finished, because for powersaving reasons I will switch the supply voltage. At this time the power supply is hardwired to the internal 3.3V. My plan is to use a FET to control the power.
If you wan't the WMC-C19 module you have to solder 2 voltage regulators and some capacitors to supply the module.

Here are the missing components:


Except the power switching isssue and the missing blue led bluetooth works well on my Zaurus.

Cheers,

Dirk