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Joined: 10-December 03
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Local Time: Nov 25 2015, 12:25 PM
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16 Oct 2006
Is there any word on a work-around for the "Deactivate LCD" option in light&power settings? I'm running an SL5500 and cannot seem to find any follow-up on this issue (it was mentioned by someone on openzaurus.org on the page announcing the initial release of 3.5.4).
7 Dec 2005
We've been testing different AP's here in the lab, so I brought my Zaurus in to help gather data. Over the last few days we have had a Netgear WGR614 v.6 on the bench which is causing me headaches. Every wireless card we have tested works with this AP except for my Zaurus. Even my linux laptop is connecting without problems. On my Zaurus, iwconfig shows that the card is associated and has a strong signal, but when udhcpc kicks in, it times out and never gets an IP address.
We have been using identical SSID's and wep keys when setting up each AP (verified by the fact that I do not change any settings when I plug my wifi card into the laptop). I'm not having problems connecting to any other AP's, so I was hoping someone might be able to tell me if there's something different I need to do to try and get a connection here?
Netgear WGR614 v.6 access point
Zaurus SL-5500 running OZ GPE 3.5.3
25 Oct 2005
After a year of using my Z with rubber-bands holding on the lithium battery packs, I'm getting really tired of fighting it. Ever since I did the battery mod, I've been wanting to mould a new back to cover them up since it's really hard to slip in and out of my pockets now. I decided to write up a how-to guide as I work on this process. If anyone has suggestions along the way, feel free to jump in.
So now it's time to get started. (This is the part where I really wish I had a digital camera, but I'll see if I can borrow one.) Last weekend I started shopping. I needed something that was the right size and shape, with smooth rounded corners. Primarily I wanted something that was the right width, and as long or longer than the body of the Z. What I found were small transparent plastic cases for holding screws or craft pieces. These are sold in all different sizes and shapes. I actually found one that was the perfect size in the fishing lures.
Initially, I was going to just use a dremmel to cut up the case and use it as it is. But why should I do anything the easy way? Instead I decided to try my hand at vacuum moulding. There's a lot of info about this online, and the concept is really simple. Make a negative, drill holes through it, and connect the holes to a vacuum line. Clamp a piece of plastic over the top, stick it in the oven, and when the plastic starts to sag, turn on the vacuum to fill your mould.
Last night I found a box for a power supply, lined the bottom and sides with a single piece of aluminum foil, and mixed up a batch of plaster. The plaster was left somewhat thick, and poured into the box to more than an inch deep. Then I took my plastic case, covered it with vaseline, and pressed it into the plaster. You will want to push it in at an angle to try and prevent air bubbles from being trapped underneath. Get as many out as you can, but any remaning will be filled later. You will want to press your plastic case in at least 3/4" deep. Shake and rock it to get the plaster to settle right up against the sides. You'll need to work fast, as the plaster will start setting up in about 5 minutes. Note that the plaster will get very warm when it starts to cure!
Once everything is in place, let the plaster sit for at least an hour or two. It will still be damp, but you want it solid before moving it. Now you should be able to gently rock your plastic case and have it pop right out of the plaster. Let the mould sit overnight, then pull it out of the box (either by turning the box over and gently letting the mould drop out, or by cutting the box off). If you packed the aluminum foil nice and tight against the inside of the box, it should come cleanly off of the plaster.
Now look over what you have. There may be some air pockets or other defects to fill in. Mix up some more plaster and fill in the holes until you have a clean mould. At this point you will need to let the plaster sit for a few days to dry out, but the mould is nearly complete.
What's next: After drying, the top surface will need to be sanded flat and holes drilled through the mould for the vacuum.
17 Oct 2005
It's been quite a long time since I've played with GPE, and now I'm having troubles finding software. Can anyone point me to other feeds? Also, is Ipaq software compatible with GPE? I see a lot of mention of Ipaq in these threads and wonder if there are Ipaq feeds somewhere that I could use.
Some specifics I'm looking for:
- Wellenreiter II
- Firefox or other browsers
- Email client
- working Gaim (the one in the feed has the config screen scrunched up, so I can't see what I'm putting in)
Also I seem to be having problems with ipaq-sleep. It is being run at boot, but doesn't seem to be using any of the settings in /etc/ipaq-sleep.conf. The screen goes completely blank after several minutes, but it never dims. I have commented out the apm line in device_table, but otherwise do not know what else to look for?
14 Oct 2005
Is it possible under GPE 3.5.3 to configure more than one access point? Ideally I would like to enter the specific ssid's and WEP keys for my home and work AP's, plus allow conectivity to any open AP's which are broadcasting themselves.
Wireless.opts would conect to the first block that matched the discovered AP, but I haven't found a similar method of doing this under GPE. I see that wireless.opts is still present in GPE, so if there is no method for multiple conections already present, can someone tell me if the code to use wireless.opts is at least complete and functional?
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