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Zuse
Hi again,
QUOTE(Da_Blitz @ Jun 18 2006, 02:32 PM)
Tahts exactly what the usb hubs can do wink.gif they can switch off the power totaly to a port if i rimeber corectsy ethier that or they allow low current (less than a miliamp) to detect when the old device is pulled out and a new one is plugged in

O.K. that’s something I have to test. The physically plug and unplug of a device need to be detected somehow. The question is what happens if you "suspend" (in terms of software) a USB-device? Is there no current drain at all, or might there be still a little and if so, how much?
To save juice the best idea would be to disconnect the unused devices. Therefore, the question is how much difference (in terms of current) would it be for a suspend stick compared to a physical "cut-off" stick (by means of some electrical switches) + the required juice to run such electronic.

Another problem which occurs to me during the "Get-the-stuff-together"-phase; There are a lot of tiny sticks (memory, wlan, bluetooth) available. But mostly the sellers do not write about the internals. I need to know the chipsets to know whether it runs under linux. In addition the size of the actual PCB-boards would be fine, as well as the power consumptions. Last but not least I have to take care for the size factor of the wlan and bluetooth antenna.

A lot of unknown parameters. Any idea how to get this info or any devices which you favourite?

Greetings

Zuse
Lurker
Zuse:
FCC Equipment Authorization Database (in case you did not already know)
All wireless devices sold or intended for use in the US must obtain FCC approval. The trouble is getting the FCC ID number when you do not have the actual device in hand. Even searching by manufacturer is hit-and-miss because many deviced are OEM'ed. Still, it is an excellent resource.

By the way, I am also thinking along the same lines as you for my Zaurus mods. I hope (but doubt) it is possible to fit a type I CF card and USB hub in the CF slot. The smallest hub I have seen is this Targus mini hub, which is also sold OEM'ed by several other resellers. I have not picked one up yet, though, so I do not know what the internals look like.
Da_Blitz
you can calculate the current draw or just read the usb spec search for standby current, i belive its less than 1mA

i have a usb hub smaller than a cf card and a bluetooth stick that can fit on top and still have it sit nicley in my CF card slot so i am going to do it that way (i dont use the CF slot) the advantage is that i will have 2 full usb ports sticking out the side

btw thats the same hub i have but i removed 2 usb sockets on one side
Da_Blitz
Bluetoothe is fairly universal luckily the one i have is about 1cm by 2cms and is paper thin

forgot to mention that that hub is fairly hackable, i picked it up for about AU $10 with a retractable cable (thats why i got it), the board is about the sive of 2 full sized usb ports, it wont allow you to have both but i think 2 full sized ports are worth losing my CF slot as usb flash is so cheap
Zuse
Hi Lurker,

thanks for the info. I know the fcc page. However, as you wrote already normaly nobody place the fcc number in the article description.

For bluetooth I think I will find a small and cheap stick easly.
Memory are even less problematic. I think I may even use a tiny USB adapter and a mini-SD card.

For Wlan I need WPA encryption as far as I know this requires Prism chipset and hostap driver.

For the USB hub i found a cheap 4 port hub. Since I may not use the USB-plugs itself (directly solder them wire by wire) I think I can make the whole setup even smaller.

However, first I will try everything in the oridnary way on my C1000 wink.gif

Greetings
Zuse
Zuse
Hi Da_Blitz,

thanks for your information. In the moment I do not know whehter I like to use the CF-port or the space left in my Aktita (where the C3x000 keeps the microdrive).

In general the Cxx00 serie owns a USB-port already. O.k. you need an adapter cable but why not biggrin.gif (You also wrote about "case-modding" why not replace the mini-USB A plug by and normal USB A plug)

More interesting is the use of a internal wlan and bluetooth. I use a D-Link 660W in the moment. Works great but the antenna is somewhat sticking out and make the handling of the Z somewhat clumsy.

if in addtion a flash-memory can be included as well fine wink.gif

I just got another idea ... let me check the CF-specs tongue.gif


Thanks

Zuse
speculatrix
QUOTE(Zuse @ Jun 20 2006, 06:11 PM)
For Wlan I need WPA encryption as far as I know this requires Prism chipset and hostap driver.


prism usb is only working with wlan-ng driver and that doesn't support WPA... only prism CF cards work with hostap.

usb ralink b/g does work with hostap (I think).
albertr
wpasupplicant doesn't require Prism chipset drivers. In fact, it can work with a broad range of hardware if appropriate WE support is implemented in the drivers. I.e. on my C1K, I have a ZD1211-based usb module doing WPA just fine...
-albertr
Lurker
If a USB hub were to be wired to the internal port, would the power control circuit still be needed? I understand that it controls power on/off to the individual devices, but does it perform any other function? In other words, what negative effects would occur if a device were to be directly soldered to the internal port? My guess is that the device would continue to to draw power even when its driver is unloaded, but how much? Would it not go into a "sleep" mode?

I ask these questions because as an OpenZaurus user the software side is in question. My limited knowledge leads me to believe that Albertr's code most likely would not work on OZ without modification (I did not get an answer when I asked before). I don't really need an internal USB hub, but it is an acceptable stop-gap solution if it bypasses the need for additional software. Now all I need to know is if OpenZaurus recognizes the internal USB port. The following dmesg snippet leads me to believe it does:
hub 1-0:1.0 : USB hub found
hub 1-0:1.0 : 3 ports detected
albertr
A few pages back there were some current consumption numbers posted.
-albertr
Da_Blitz
OZ should just work, but i have yet to try it out
Lurker
QUOTE(albertr @ Jun 21 2006, 11:11 AM)
A few pages back there were some current consumption numbers posted.
-albertr
*



I'm sure they were but not only is this thread 21 pages long now, trying to read through all the electrical tech-speak gave me a headache tongue.gif
speculatrix
this thread really needs to be distilled down to a wiki entry; but then also I think Albert's page is pretty complete too.
Lurker
Exactly what kind of resistor is used for the USB OTG power domain mod? Could someone point it out for me in the Mouser Electronics selection? I was originally planning to use a carbon film resistor such as those sold by Radio Shack, but I now see that my sense of scale was waaaay off. Those surface-mount resistors are tiny! I suppose I could still manage to work the carbon-film resistor in there, and it might actually be best considering my soldering skill level, but is that type of resistor suitable for this application electrically (reliability)?

This will hopefully be the last piece of info I need. Thanks Albertr, Boris, Da-Blitz and everyone else who has researched this project and helped the clueless to understand it laugh.gif
albertr
Any resistor would do. The amount of current flowing thru it is almost nil. The 5-10% deviation from nominal resistance is insignifacant too. I use the one from Radioshack solded with flying leads. Works fine.
-albertr
Lurker
Albertr,
Sorry, just one more thing...

On your project page, under the USB OTG Power Domain section, it states:

QUOTE
....
This limit could be lifted to:
# ~400-450mA with a 2K resistor
# ~500mA with a 1.6K resistor
# ~600-650mA with a 1K resistor
....
According to the following post by Boris, it should be safe to draw ~500mA from this regulator. I'm using it with a 1K resistor on the PCL pin, and it's able to provide sufficient current to power both internal Wi-Fi and bluetooth modules at the same time.


You have stated several times that you are using a 1k resistor. Has this proven to be safe? Or are you simply making sure your device's total power draw does not exceed 500mA?
My local RadioShack only stocked 1k and 1.5k resistors (in the range that I need). Which would you recommend?
albertr
I'm not sure I understand your question... Yes, I'm using a 1K resistor. It works fine for me. What kind of proof you are looking for? With a 1K resistor on PCL pin, TK3850 is delivering enough juice to power both wi-fi and bt modules inside my C1K. But if I connect the external usb ethernet dongle at the same time, it shuts itself off (overcurrent protection kicks in). I didn't really want to have a possibility of three usb devices powered up at the same time, so it's fine with me. Most of the time, I use either bt or wi-fi or external ethernet only.
-albertr
Lurker
<deleted>

Sorry, I wrote that after a long day. When I went back and re-read it just now, I finally saw how little sense it made.
Da_Blitz
Sounds like it should work to me as a lower val means more current and 500mA < 600mA, even if 1.6K is 500mA you can only get 1K or 1.5K so your limit should be above 500mA
speculatrix
QUOTE(albertr @ Jun 20 2006, 07:02 PM)
wpasupplicant doesn't require Prism chipset drivers. In fact, it can work with a broad range of hardware if appropriate WE support is implemented in the drivers. I.e. on my C1K, I have a ZD1211-based usb module doing WPA just fine...
-albertr
*


hmm, so how can we get WPA working on the 6000 which is a usb prism chipset for which there only appear to be wlan-ng? maybe take this to the 6000 section?
Zuse
Hi Modders, wink.gif

just found this one here

Suncore Wireless LAN / Bluetooth USB Kombi-Stick
http://www.suncore.com.tw/

I do not know it was discussed already here or not (the thread got to long to remember all).
Just need to find out whether it works under Linux or not, and if so together with WPA.
Maybe someone can open one to check the chipssets.
I can contact the suncore people if it might be from more interest.

Best regards

Zuse
Da_Blitz
anyone got a copy of albertr site, cant seem to get a response from the server (it accepts the connection but dosent send any data back)
Jon_J
I copied this page, (by albertr), awhile ago, and zipped it up. It includes 27 pics and a schematic.
"Exploring built-in wireless networking on PXA270-based Sharp Zaurus" (1.4mb)
Da_Blitz
thanks for that, i deleated my local copy by accident.

if anyone needs it i will put it on my site until asked to take it down

bluetooth'd

[edit] fixed the link, had an extra E in it
scholbert
Hi there,

i'd like to connect a very small bluetooth module to my C3100 to the I/O port on the back (very nice work albertr) biggrin.gif .
After having some tests i will try to find a little space to put it inside.

I just edited this message because the serial I/O at the back is supported in cacko 1.23, so everything is fine now.

I made a mistake maesuring the serial lines on the I/O.

The rest is hardware stuff.

scholbert
louigi600
QUOTE(Da_Blitz @ Jul 24 2006, 09:41 PM)
thanks for that, i deleated my local copy by accident.

if anyone needs it i will put it on my site until asked to take it down

bluetooth'd

[edit] fixed the link, had an extra E in it
*

Da_Blitz ... your link got broken too ;-)

Anyway I've a USB HUB very much similar to the onbe you described
lsusb reports:
Bus 001 Device 005: ID 03eb:0902 Atmel Corp.
Is this the same as the one you were talking about ?

Mine seems to have trouble with USB-STORAGE devices (everything elese seems to work).
Is this some trouble just with mine or is your's afflicted by the same trouble ?
Da_Blitz
looking at lsusb (i have trouble making sense of it at the best of times even with -t) i can see that i have a diffrent manufacter. it could be the same with diffrent firmware

with USB storage was it selfpowered, perhaps it could not deal with power spikes well or didnt provide enough power
louigi600
QUOTE(Da_Blitz @ Aug 2 2007, 05:28 PM)
looking at lsusb (i have trouble making sense of it at the best of times even with -t) i can see that i have a diffrent manufacter. it could be the same with diffrent firmware

with USB storage was it selfpowered, perhaps it could not deal with power spikes well or didnt provide enough power
*

I tryed bothe powering separetely the device and using low power devices (like usb mem sticks) that can power off the OTG anyway ... nither was was a success.

Did you complete the internal HUB in your Z ?
Da_Blitz
neer had a chance, connected 5v backwards and blew the power supploy.

i did manage to buy a c3100 but i havent done anything on it at all. its low on my list of priorities however i did dremel the case

as i stated earlier in this topic the hub i have is no bigger than a CF card so with some filingi managed to make it fit in the MD slot. however i would not do that again as it destroys the mechanical intregrity of the case along taht edge.
what i would do instead is take the CF blakning plate and use that as the frame for the SUB hub (no gaps and hold everything in place

i did manage to find room for a wifi card however i had to remove the SD slot PCB and dremel the MD retention plastic. with a bit of creativity and tape you could remove the plastic in its entirety however it seemed like a good idea to keep it

the last thin i did was dremel the pen well so that a wif antenna socket could be put there instead (dont use the touch screen much). basically you feed the cable down the tube then glue the socket at the end. when fitted it looked quite nice.

i might practice on the dead one and try and fix the power supply (i have plans for it as "the complete tagger") before ruining the finish on the c3100
louigi600
I want to do 2 things ... one relatively soon and the other later on.

The first thing I'd do is to pickyback on the 5.7K Ohm OTG regulator a 2.2K Ohm or even a 1.2K Ohm. This would rase the OTG output current to equal or exeed standard usb current specifications thus allowing me to acheive the following:
keep the usb client capabilities,
drive my zd1211 directly from Z (without externally powered hub)
drive a small hub with bothe buetooth and zd1211 dongles plugged in without need external power,
drive a 2.5" usb HDU without the need of external power.

At a later stage I'd use the port1 datalines (along with a 5V power domain yet to be defined but separate from the OTG) to hook up the tiny hub I have with the zd1211 and bluetooth modules connected to it.
I'd do this later because of the following difficulties:
finding another safe 5V power domain,
the port1 are not functional with the default 2.6 kernel untill the port2 detectd that it's used as a host (you can see lsusb detects nothing if nothing is connected to the OTG ... while it detects whatever is connected to OTG + an empty port when the OTG is used as HOST {true at least on pdaxrom r198}),
having to modify kernel to reuse some free gpio pins to power controll power on the internally placed dongles.

I know that Albertr already has done part of the job .... but he completely removed the USB client capabilities.

I also looked closely at where the hub's standard USB plugs would come out of the case and I agree with you that the cases structural integrity would be compromised if one would cut holes for standard usb plugs. Actually I think that even 2 mini plugs wouls still have bad effects on structural integrity ... so I'd just be happy with the internal wireless.
Da_Blitz
I like the idea of raising the power but if you are going to power a drive can you PLEAS PLEAS reenforce the Z's power mechenism, i feel you might get resets otherwis with that type of loading

as for 2.6, did you load the ohci modules or the OTG ones as well, i have a feeling taht if you just load the host ones (ohci) then it should detect both, will give it a try tomorrow

its not that bad in terms of structual integrity, but if you dropped it you wolud regret it

anyone care to give me a reminder if angstrom is booting a kernel in /boot on the root fs? if it is i might compli e a kernel to give some things a go, if the second port isnt detected until OTG is activated then it might be a patch causing it
louigi600
QUOTE(Da_Blitz @ Aug 4 2007, 10:19 AM)
I like the idea of raising the power but if you are going to power a drive can you PLEAS PLEAS reenforce the Z's power mechenism, i feel you might get resets otherwis with that type of loading

Well I've a usb2 external 2.5" drive that gets powered just fine from a standard usb port (<=500mA) ... so should I not be ok as long as the mod can make the OTG deliver 500mA ?

I know that it will drain the batteries really fast .... but this is just for convenience when you do not want to hook up everything for just a few minutes HDU access.

Is there something else I should concider ?
Would I start blowing the internal SMD fuses ?

QUOTE
as for 2.6, did you load the ohci modules or the OTG ones as well, i have a feeling taht if you just load the host ones (ohci) then it should detect both, will give it a try tomorrow

What should the OTG modules be called ?

QUOTE
its not that bad in terms of structual integrity, but if you dropped it you wolud regret it

I've opened it up ... yea it will not fall appart on it's own but it might even not need to hit the floor to regret it.
QUOTE
anyone care to give me a reminder if angstrom is booting a kernel in /boot on the root fs? if it is i might compli e a kernel to give some things a go, if the second port isnt detected until OTG is activated then it might be a patch causing it

Cannot help much with Angstrom as I do not use it.
Da_Blitz
actually the reason i recommend a cap is so you dont blow a fuse, if you power the wifi card and the hard drive you will see some serious spikes (wifi is bursty in nature) so it will help protect your Z at the least (i mean are you too cheap to shell out the 20c for a capacitor)

will check the OTG module names latter
louigi600
Yes a capacitor would have been a good idea ... too late right now because I've already made the mod and closed the Z again ... but I'll open it up again as it is a good idea even though the 500mA output I now have will be insufficient for bothe wifi and HDU.

Anyway the mod was successfull so far. I have not yet tested the external HDU directly (wait for the capacitor first) but the wifi dongle (which was the NO. 1 motivation for this mod) worked fine.

The TK3850 datasheet link is broken (and I google unseccessfully) so I'm not sure if there are constraints on the output capacitance ?
I'm assuming that anything below 470uF will be fine anyway: if I can get a small enough 200uF >=10V tantalium electrolitic that's what I'll use (otherwirse the largest capacitance that can fit).
Da_Blitz
pics?

sounds about right for the cap

so is the second port recigniseda ll the time? and wich wifi card were you using again. whats the battery life like
louigi600
Pictures of what I did are on my home page ("ZElectronics" menu on the left and "OTG Power Boost" on the top) along with a description as to how to go about upening the C1K for those who fear this part (I know that's not for you Da_Bliz).

Exuce me but I cant figure out what you mena with this:
QUOTE(Da_Blitz)
so is the second port recigniseda ll the time?

I was using a digicom branded zd1211 and battery life was much better then what I get with my linksys CF wifi. Well it's not difficult to get more then 45 minutes (that's what I get with the linksys). What I did notice is that initially the battery drops rather fast to about 40% ... then it levels out to go for over 2 hours (but I did not time it precisely ... I will next time).
Da_Blitz
mmm, too much caffine hence the spelling

i remember you stated that unless something was plugged into the OTG port the other port was invisible, i was wondering if you solved that issue or if you just hijacked the OTG port instead

2 hours gives me a rule of thumb, thats basically what i wanted. i was wondering what the power draw was like and was expecting worse than that
louigi600
Well it looks like the usb modules are loaded only when something is plugged in (at least that's what happens with pdaxrom).
If I do an "lsmod" I see no usb modules at all nither the standard ohci-hcd nor the pxa27x_udc nor the usbcore when there is nothing plugged in.

If I just plug in the mini-a_2_a-socket the usbcore and ohci-hcd modules are loaded.

If nothing is in the OTG plug and I manually insert the usbcore and then the ohci_hcd I get errors when attempting to load the latter (maybe because the ID is free and hence it's in client mode).

Now the odd thing is that right now no matter what I doo I only seem to see just one usb bus. I'm trying to look back to where I posted that I could see bothe busses to examine if I was mistaken when I claimed that or if something has gone wrong since or whatever ... but I was unable to find the posting. I guess I might have been mistaken :-( {maybe I saw 2 devices and not 2 busses ... or maybe I looked when I had the external hub connected) ... I guess that with a little fiddling in the kernel sources one could see bothe for sure ;-) .

Concerning the power now:
well I've not measured exactly but I remember that before the mod the defice used to get turned onn and off. I expect this to mean that the dongle was drawing a little over the 200mA otg ... but not too much because it had the time to switch on.
I could make more accurate guesses if I timed precisely how much the battery lasts while using the wifi dongle.
Currently more then 2 hours is suggesting less then 450mA ... but that sounds like too much for the device bounces on OTG supply ... so I gues that if I timed precisely I'd get close to 3 hours.
I do not want to make mints of a cable ti make accurate reading with a tester ... but if I find scrap A plug and A socket I'll make a special cable for making accurate mesurements (which dew to the spiky nature of wifi dongle may be useless with my digital meter ... one would need analog meter to get a better feel of what the avarage current would be).
Da_Blitz
in this case i would take the battery capacity and divide it by run time, no need for a cable or anything else

i cant offer any advice about pdaxrom, havent used it for ages, howeer under angstrom it was always a simple case of loading ohci-hcd, perhaps if you can give us the tail of dmesg after loading the module so we can see why it wont insert itself

i hope you can see both busses but i guess you have it working now so it dosent warrent any more inspection (ie into the second connector)
louigi600
Yea ... I've already approzimated the Z to absorb around 225mA (under light use like mp3 playback) 1800/8=225 (I can get around 8 hours mp3 playback).
Ooops I think I did som bad calculation .... this is some better calculation:
So lowering the duration to 2 hours 40 mins would mean that the 3 times more current is drawn ...
so 225 for Z and 450 to wifi ...
but as I asid befor 450 seems to much for the bouncing stuff before the mod ... so I would expect accurate timing to be over 3 hours.

I'm not to fussed about what's happening right now with 2.6.16 because I hope pdaxrom will soon have a 2.6.21 or above kernel.
Anyway looking at dmesg i see some pxa27x-ohci messages when I insert the usb dongle ... but pxa27x-ohci is not module ... maybe a little tweeging in the /sys tree might get it working anyway. It's not an issue for me right now but I'm attaching the dmesg anyway.

Ok I now have the step 1) done ... but step 2) is scheduled ... so even if the hub I intend to sacrifice for the step 2) cannot manage usb-storage I still like to have internal wireless (which works fine with that hub) ...
Step 2) is not scheduled in the near future because first I want to reach a satisfactory stability on my Z without sacrifising flexibility (that's why I stick with pdaxrom ... what the hel I've recently become a pdaxrom devel).

Here's what lsusb produces:
# lsusb
Unknown line at line 5924
Unknown line at line 5925
Unknown line at line 5926
Unknown line at line 5927
Unknown line at line 5928
Unknown line at line 5929
Unknown line at line 5930
Unknown line at line 5931
Unknown line at line 5932
Unknown line at line 5933
Unknown line at line 5934
Unknown line at line 5935
Bus 001 Device 002: ID 1131:1001 Integrated System Solution Corp. KY-BT100 Bluetooth Adapter
Bus 001 Device 001: ID 0000:0000
#

You can see that the bluetooth module is inserted (and I'm actually using it to ssh to Z and get the output to paste it here ... look at my bluetooth management helper script on my home page: blue ... I've recently made the scanning feature more pawerfull then plain "hcitoo scan")

BTW: there is another things that makes estimation harder ... the 225mA I estimated is with LCD backlight off (mp3 playback with lid closed) ... while the wifi usb dongle measurements are made with the LCD on .... and the LCD power consumption is not negligable (the battery juice can vary upto, and maybe more then, 10% pretty much instantly between LCD on or off)
Da_Blitz
must say i am impressed, as of late i have been using bluetooth alot more and have the plans and design for a curses bassed front end simmilar to the wince wizard (widcomm stack, not the microsoft one) to make creating connection eiaser

the only reason i held off is because i found the pand auto discovery and connect setting so i dont have to bother with mac addresses
louigi600
Yea .... I did not want to go into the SDP details so I made a script to do the MAC address handling ... I just get asked do you want to connect to 1, 2, 3 or n ?
the cript does the rest for me.
I know I'm a crocked guy and I prefer to spend much more time writing a stupid script than read documentation on a feature that would help me do the same thing .... but maybe when I started writing the thing (something like 4 years back) maybe bluez had not yed done anything about SDP ;-) ... or if it was there it was really poorly documented.
utx
I am trying to return to the original topic of this looong thread: Adding a serial module to BTUART.

I am trying to exactly reproduce, what Sharp developers intended to do and owners of SL-6000L or SL-6000W could help.

Are there any success stories on it? And in particular - is there enough space (1.9mm needed) between PCB and hard drive on SL-C3xxx models (I guess it might be - connector is CF2, HDD seems to be CF1).

As far as I read all threads and photos, there is my summary of needed changes:

Part: resistor array 4x22J (e. g. koaspeer.com is CN1E4KTBK220J)
Function: PXA270 data line resistors
Position: below metallic cover of processor near ground shield (the only open resistor array position)
Status: Open on SL-Cxxxx, required to add

Part: unknown array 4x? (probably resistors, tens of kiloohms)
Function: Data line grounding
Position: Very near the internal CF slot connector (below HDD).
Status: Open on SL-Cxxxx, present on all SL-6000 models (even models without Bluetooth), probably good to add

Part: Mitsumi WML-C19NHN (no antenna)
Function: Bluetooth module
Position: Below HDD. 3 sides with 10 pins (one with gap in the middle) fourth side with 2 pins
Status: Required to add. Optionally possible to add module with an antenna, but on SL-6000 there might be a problem with one soldering point below antenna.

Part: Zero resistor
Function: Reset
Position: Unknown, maybe even does not exist
Status: Probably not needed

Part: Capacitor, unknown capacity
Function: Antenna circuit
Position: First ground connection near module antenna pins
Status: Probably not needed, open even on SL-6000W, but soldered on similar place of WLAN antenna circuit of SL-6000L

Part: Resistor, unknown value (guessing 0-70ohms)
Function: Antenna circuit
Position: First jumper connection near module antenna pins
Status: Required for module without antenna

Part: Open position for capacitor
Function: Antenna circuit
Position: Second ground connection near module antenna pins
Status: Open erven on SL-6000W

Part: Resistor, unknown value (guessing 0-70ohms)
Function: Antenna circuit
Position: Second jumper connection near module antenna pins
Status: Required for module without antenna

Part: Antenna, unknown type
Function: Antenna
Position: Nine large soldering pins below HDD near PCB edge
Status: Required for module without antenna

Can anybody help with identification of missing components values.
utx
I found more parts, which has to be added:

It seems to be required to solder two step down circuits, each of them consists of one IC, three small resistors or capacitors and one bigger capacitor. One connected to BT module pins 2 should be 1.8V, second connected to pin 19 should e between 1.7 and 3.4V.

There is also one small resistor/capacitor at pin 21 (AIO[0]) and another on pin 4 (AIO[1]) - this one is connected with transistor, which switches Reset (pin 3).

Maybe SL-C6000x owner could help in detecting of these parts.

Please also take care on Blutooth module variants:

WML-C19[N=no antenna|A=with antenna][B=BCSP UART|H=H4 UART][N=no regulator|R=1.8V regulator integrated]

Note, that module WML-C19NHN (the one from SL-6000W) does not support deep sleep mode, so it is maybe implemented outside - most probably by turning step down circuits off.

It also means, that if you will use WML-C19NHR, you would be able to omit one step down circuit.

Also note, that WML-C19 modules are produced not only by Mitsumi, but also by Baracoda.

I still have no idea, why Sharp used WML-C19 (which integrates PIO and 13-bit audio convertor) and not simpler WML-C09 (which is pin incompatible).
speculatrix
Hi,
I'm, the guy who wrecked his 6000 trying to implant a bluetooth module (snapped a BGA ddram reassembling). Just one think to be very careful about is that the Mitsumi modules come with different pin pitches.

Here's my photo of the 6000's motherboard and the module I bought which turned out to be the wrong type.
http://www.zaurus.org.uk/images/6000_motherboard6.jpg

Somewhere I have a photo of the above with a ruler across it for scale, I'll see if I can find it.

The best I can do is this, which was the wrong module I was misled to buy.

Click to view attachment

I still have the module if anyone things they can use it.
utx
I have a small update: SL-C3200 Hitachi HDD is CF2 size (5mm thick) so I doubt there will be enough space for any BT module using original pins. So the original PCB is exclusive: Either CF slot with HDD (SL-C3xxx) or Bluetooth (SL-C1000). One cannot have both there.

But you can still solder flat wires there and place BT module to another place. It means, that you can use any module which supports 3V data lines and UART mode. Nowadays you can buy much smaller modules than the original WML-C19NHR, which don't require external voltage regulator and reset.

QUOTE(speculatrix @ Sep 9 2007, 11:11 PM)
Here's my photo of the 6000's motherboard and the module I bought which turned out to be the wrong type.


Your module is probably WML-C09AHR (AIR?). This is a module without sound processor and PIO and it is pin incompatible. But it can still be used wit a bit of wiring.

Youn have not only to carry about model name, but also letters after it:
A=embedded antenna
H (if it is really H)=H4 UART
R=regulator is included

You have need to wire at least these pins:
Four data pins.
Power.
Reset.

If you want to know exact wiring, I can send you data sheets with details.

But if you can look at your SL-6000, I would be glad, if you could help to detect following parts:
Small quad-resistor pack near module data pins.

And if you could trace or get high res photo of wires to following pins, it would be very nice:
Two changer modules to BT module pins 21 and 4. Each should consist from one small 5-pin IC, one a bit larger PCB capacitor and three small unknown parts. They should be located near to these pins, maybe on the opposite side of the PCB.

Also tracing of exact wiring of reset (one transistor and one unknown small part) would help. Note that at least the WML-C19 requires reset to work.
speculatrix
Here's the thread that Guylhem created about implanting bluetooth to turn a 6000L into a 6000W:
http://www.oesf.org/forums/index.php?showt...16&hl=bluetooth

I forgot to mention that a little while ago someone was offering Ericsson ROKR bluetooth modules, which are wafer thin... I bought three before I knew of the WML modules, but put them to one side - they are "ROK 101 008/21" and maybe just a millimetre thick. I have the documents on them somewhere, I will dig it out.
utx
QUOTE(speculatrix @ Sep 12 2007, 12:21 AM)
Here's the thread that Guylhem created about implanting bluetooth to turn a 6000L into a 6000W:


Yes, exactly this image, your photos of SL-6000, photos from semi-dead iral.com (working only from some OS versions) and photos from www.piro.hopto.org (dead, but available from archive.org) were start point for my attempt to reconstruct original BT design intention.

But as I wrote above, it could be usable only for SL-C1000. In SL-C3x00, even 1mm might be impossible. There is a theoretical chance to replace CF II HDD by CF I flash to get additional 1.7mm of space, but I am not going to do it. I use swap a lot and the disc seems to be better here (on each byte written, flash memories needs to clear and re-flash about 64kiB of data.
speculatrix
hmm, so some ultra-fine wires and putting the bluetooth module elsewhere would be our only chance.

the alternative would be to not just replace the internal microdrive with a flash card, but replace it with, say, a stripped-down wifi card, fit the bluetooth module, and use the external CF slot instead for microdrive, and fit a 4GB sd card too. That way you'd have an ultimate-connectivity Zaurus but all the mass storage would be removable.

can the internal CF slot be used for I/O type devices, or is it limited to IDE/CF type?
speculatrix
QUOTE(utx @ Sep 9 2007, 11:50 PM)
Your module is probably WML-C09AHR (AIR?). This is a module without sound processor and PIO and it is pin incompatible. But it can still be used wit a bit of wiring.
*


yes, this is what I have. I guess I have two choices if I wish to fit it into my 6000 - either get the WML-C19 instead which can be simply dropped into place, or, use lots of flying leads. hmm.

since there's no room to drop the WML-C19 into a C3x00 because of the microdrive, then it'd be better to use the WMLC09 module for that instead.

would you like one of my WML-C09 modules? free to you, if you pay P&P, for your generous giving of time to the zaurus community. Then, if you get it to work on the C3x00, I would be able to repeat your work!

Paul
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