I am trying to experiement with VOIP. To do that, I need a headphone with microphone, which has a 3.5mm plug.

Could anyone tell me where to get one? Or do I have to use a 3.5 mm to 2.5 mm adapter first, and then a headphone / microphone combo?

Thanks for your advice.

Miklos

I will be very interested if it exist.
i saw that the Z1000 had a microphone "inside", but not figured out how to use it.
hope someone had tested this!

What I did: I took cheap stereo earphones, cut off one of the earphones (IIRC it was the left one, but I could be wrong) and mounted the microphone of a cheap mobile phone headset to the line of the cut off earphone.

This works VERY nicely and involves very little soldering (only on the mic).
The thing now looks exactly like a standard headset.
And it costs only about 5 Euro if you buy the parts cheaply on ebay.

daniel

So, one of the channel (let'say the left one) is for microphone, the orther one for the speaker mono. that'it?.

About VoIp, did you use Kphone?

Yes, that is what I am planning to use - but I need a headphone / mic set first...

I will try to find a 3.5mm to 2.5mm adapter, so that I can try if my cell phone headset works...

I have used KPhone/PI a lot with the sipgate.de service and it works great with the above mentione self-made headset. As long as you don't touch the GUI while speaking, sound quality is excellent. As soon as you disturb the Zaurus by hitting keys or using the stylus, you will have interruptions.

Yes, such an adater with a standard headset may work as well. Just make sure the correct channel / mic connection.

daniel

the connector on the zaurus has 4 rings, gnd,mic,left,right (btw the mic is also used for the remote control) cant remeber the order specifcally but i do have a picture of how to make the remote which gives a pinout

ethier way any stero headset for a mobile phone should work as long as it has 4 sections on the plug and is 3.5mm, if you use a 2.5 to 3.5 you run the risk of buying one that only supports stereo and dosent support the mic (3 ring not 4) will post the pic soon

That is as far as I know not completely true (but I might be wrong). Yes, it has 4 rings, but the 4th ring is used only for the remote control. I personally use just a nomal 2.5 mm handsfree with 3 rings and a 3.5 mm to 2.5 mm adapter and it works great with my C1000 and kphone.

For those who are wondering how the switch between audio input and output is done: It's done via the different impedances of headphones and microphones.

regards

griesie

Sorry, but that cannot be exactly correct.
I think the switch is done in software (dependent on the kind of software it either uses the channel as input or as output).

Reason: I can also use normal stereo earphones for KPhone/PI and use one of the earphones for listening and speak into the other one. Works well, too, but not optimal. So the decision if a mic or headphone is connected cannot be done via impedance measurement.

daniel

Hi,

if really works with a stereo headphone, then you're absolutely right (I never checked that). Anyway, the important thing is, that handsfrees with 3 rings do work ;-)


griesie

I cant remeber if this is the exact values for the resistors (the one for the previos models uses diffrent resistors) but i thought i would post this for anyone who was intrested, it also explains how the headphone jack is wired

Thank you! So I may finally be able to build my own remote control.
Howeer, the picture is named ..RH1. IIRC threr is another remote control with the name RH2 for the SL-Cxx00 models. So is the schematic valid for the SL-C3000?

daniel

hi all,
i have found a 2.5 to 3.5 adaptater. i can heard sound in my telephone head set now. i do not have software to try te microphone. I have tried kphone with no success, kphone keep asking for my password, for voipbuster and fwd. i have followed the instructions found on the site of these sip providers to set up kphone. it seems that it's not possible for it to be registred ?
if i tried to dial a fixed telephone number, most of the time it will ask to login and then stop dialing. but one or two times, the phone call was done (so the logging should worked), but after 1 s the communication was established, kphone crashed.
i'm using a c1000, the sharp rom, and kphone v1.0.0.
did anybody succeed using kphone with a c1000?

i will see if i can dig one up for you, i remeber getting it off the same site that tells you how to upgrade the memorye on the c8xx zaurus's

No, it isn't. The RH2 has updated resistance values - the RH1 does not work on the 3xxx Zaurii.

Oh, that's a shame . I thought that the RH1 was listed on trisoft as working with the 1000/3x00, but upon checking again it seems it is not .

Update! Have found the resistance values for RH2. 330, 470, 680, 910,1.5k,3.3k,18k. There's schematics around too which I'm just trying to verify...

Update to the update

Well, I'm quite frankly appalled at the thought of spending $90 on rhe RH2 given that it contains about $1 of components, or less...

...so I'm building my own . Parts have been purchased, and are less then $10, and now there's the challenge of building it too. It'll not be as sleek as the RH2, but then again that just adds to its geek cred.

Just got Sennheiser's mini headset (Sennheiser PC 110).
The speaker quality isn't really for music but this is made for travel & mobile use.
First plug got 2,5m (works great with older Z models) and after that there's also volyme controller&mic on/off thing and it has 2x3,5m plugs.
Noted that when volyme is adjusted down there's still sound...

hey creative labs had a remote for like 20.00usd, bet you could modify that for a remote, it has all the functions that are listed in the schematics and it looks slick

Bam, thanks for the tip - I'll check it out as mine is looking a little, er "home grown"!

http://us.creative.com/products/product.as...=&product=11211

If the CE-RH2 resistances are different to the CE-RH1's, then the schematic Da Blitz posted won't work on any Z It appears to have the RH2 GND/KEY wiring, but with the RH1 resistances!

Be careful you get the GND and KEY connections the right way around. On the RH1 GND is the second ring on the jack, and KEY is the sheath. On the RH2 it looks like these are swapped. (Left and right are always tip and first ring.)

If you plug your remote into your Z and get clicking and buzzing noises in your headphones when you press a button (and no response from the Z) then you've gotten them the wrong way around.

I've got my own (second generation) remote for my C860 working pretty well, and it's a damn sight tinier than my first one (which was really inconvenient and never got used.) Five-way surface mount tactile joyswitches are really useful! I'll have to get around to posting photos soon...

Funny you should mention a 5 way surface mount joystick: that's what I bought for the job. Just over £1...



I then went back on Monday to get this...


Now I just need to wire it together. I've found the schematic on a Japanese site: the RH2 has 7 buttons rather than 6 but other than that it's largely the same

Heh - that's the *other* one I got a couple of. Yikes the shafts are small! Almost got those caps as well but didn't in the end - which kinda makes the sticks impractical.

The joyswitch I'm using has a larger centred stick and doesn't need a cap at all (although I might build one when I put together a better casing.) That and a second tactile button I swiped from a surplus handsfree kit was all I needed...

...almost. Finding decent thin four-core wire is HARD! I lucked out with that handsfree kit though - the cable on it was perfect

sounds good - any pics of the other stick?
I'm using a 4 core microphone cable from Maplins in the UK.

did i forget to mention that the values were wrong?, oh well the site i got this off used a NES controller as the case and plugged it in for use with his nes emulator, it was a good ida, he had the schematic for both on his site but i downlaoded the wrong one and forgot the website

Here you go:



It's got essentially the same footprint as the other one.

i am also interested to build a rh2. probalbly i will buy this zen micro remote posted above. it should be no problem to modificate it because we just have to change the resistors. i couldnt find any schematic of this one but i am sure that it has to be very similar to the rh* remotes. i cannot imagine how else to build a control that is cheap to produce. the way with the resistors is the smallest, cheapest and easiest to build... thats why i think the zen micro remote should be the same. and if it is not, its also no problem because i have the case of the remote and the switches... so i can build something else inside so that this works.
a thing to mention is that the ground of the plug is really swapped on rh2 (to rh1).

But the thing which would be nice to know before buying this zen remote is: where do you have the resistance values from? are you sure they are correct? (i mean these ones: 330, 470, 680, 910,1.5k,3.3k,18k)

EDIT: because someone mentioned that also the switches are swapped (and as i know the stop and play are switched): this is not a real problem because if you build this remote control. because if you press the "stop" button (for example), but the players starts to play music then you know that these 2 switches are really swapped. ok but this is no problem: you just have to swap the resistor from the "stop" switch with the resistor from the "play" switch. The only problem (which could occur) is that the values may not be correct. there would be also a possibility to make it: with a potentiometer.
that means: you just would need the plug which connects to the zaurus and the potentiometer. if you turn the potentiometer (i.e. it starts with 50ohms) and you arrive to the right value (i.e. 330 ohms) something should happen with the zaurus (if you have kino2 or something like this running). for example the volume gets up. so you know that 330 ohms means "volume up". if you turn again the potentiometer slowly than sometime again should happen something on the zaurus (the next value would be 470 as you said before). that has to be done until you have all switches. i think that this would take some time but it would work.

what i am also wondering about is that the value of 330 ohm also appears on the rh1. on the rh1 it would be the "back" button. that means that if someone has a rh1 and swaps ground of the plug and the key connections, ONE of the switches should operate something on the zaurus.

cheers,
MONVMENTVM

Ok... ive bought the creative zen micro remote and opened it. it seems to be an easy play to make it working with the zaurus. first it looked a bit messy but with help of a magnifying glass and a multimetre i managed to find all the traces and their functions. I think this was the hardest part of it because of the tiny traces etc... but i found out that the schematics of remotes are nearly the same, just the C1 is not available on the creative remote (but i will add this... it may work better).
The only thing to do now is to solder the old resistors out of the remote and the ones needed for the zaurus in. if it doesnt work i will also solder out the 620k resistor (wich is parallel to the switches) and put in the 18k instead (i couldnt find anything abouth the seventh resistor of the rh2 as it is not available in rh1... but i think it is also just parallel to the switches like the 620k in the creative remote). if you do not really know what i mean: look into these schematics and read again... then you should understand what i mean.

original schematic of the Creative remote:
Click to view attachment

schematic of the modded Creative remote + infos:
Click to view attachment

i have to add that i couldnt test if it works because i bought the remote just today and also ordered the resistors today... they should arrive next week and i hope that i can make the remote work until the end of next week. i will post details if i get more. if you have any questions feel free to ask me.

hope this could help someone,
MONVMENTVM

Good work! i didn't like the look of the creative in the end and am building my own.

yeah but the problem is that it might get bigger than the creative because it is not that easy to make such a small device without machines. and it is also nearly ready to work... just need to change the resistors and thats all...

cheers

Update: there was a small error in the schematic. I took the resistors like they were in the rh2, but creative traced the resitors and switches a bit different: i.e. they took resistor 4 for Forward and resistor 5 for Rewind. the rh2 had this exactly swapped. so I just swapped the values of the resistors in the schematic so that they work properly.

Resistors of: Switch Forward and Switch Rewind are swapped and Switch Vol+ / Switch Vol- also are swapped... just look into the UPDATED schematics posted above. I've deleted the false one.

yeah... today i got the resistors and soldered them into the creative remote... and hey: IT IS WORKING!

i will update this post as soon as i can to show you how i did (in pdaXrom... because pdaXrom has support just for ce-rh1... rh2 is not working out of the box, but it is not difficult to make it working).

OK here is the update:

First the schematic:
Click to view attachment

The next thing is for pdaXrom (and maybe also OE or whatever)... sharprom should support it already.
=> In /etc/X11/kb/****.xmodmap file you have an entry for the ce-rh1. It begins where it says "! CE-RH1 Remote". Then the following is written:
keycode 104 = XF86AudioRaiseVolume
keycode 105 = XF86AudioLowerVolume
keycode 106 = XF86AudioNext
keycode 107 = XF86AudioPrev
keycode 108 = XF86AudioStop
keycode 109 = XF86AudioPlay

But there maybe is no entry for CE-RH2. As you can think the keycodes for the rh2 are different to the ones of rh1. To find the right keycodes for the rh2 i started the console and typed "xev". then i plugged in my remote and pressed the first key and while pressing looked in the console for the keycode. then the second and so on (should be no difference between original CE-RH2 and modificated Creative Remote because the resistors are the same). I came to the following results:

keycode 128 = Volume Up
keycode 124 = Volume Down
keycode 126 = Previous
keycode 116 = Next
keycode 72 = Stop
keycode 76 = Play

so you can write this in the xmodmap file: (dont know why key 124 & 128 and 116 & 126 are switched)

keycode 124 = XF86AudioRaiseVolume
keycode 128 = XF86AudioLowerVolume
keycode 126 = XF86AudioNext
keycode 116 = XF86AudioPrev
keycode 72 = XF86AudioStop
keycode 76 = XF86AudioPlay

But in pdaXrom this takes some CPU time and i.e. if you want to lower the volume it is delayed for about 1 second or something. Every Button is somehow delayed. But the nice thing with this method is that if you press PLAY, XMMS starts automatically and plays where it stopped the last time. But i hate it that the buttons react delayed. So i assigned the keycodes to the shortcuts of XMMS in the xmodmap file, which are the following:
keycode 128 = Up (means Volume Up)
keycode 124 = Down (means Volume Down)
keycode 126 = Z (means Previous)
keycode 116 = B (means Next)
keycode 72 = C (means Stop)
keycode 76 = X (means Play)

as you also can see the keycodes are switched here again (as they should be... dont know why but it works as it should).

For those who are not good in fidling with electronics. Is this modification hard to do? Where can I order the parts (other than the remote itself) in the US? Radio Shack? If I show the schematic to the store clerk, will he know what parts I need? Thanks in advance.

yeah... you just have to show them the schematic and tell them that they should be SMD (surface mounted devices = the small ones).

it is not hard to do... i needed less than half an hour for soldering the resistors out and the new ones in. the problem is that they are very small so you need small needlenose pliers, a soldering iron with a thin soldering pin (the smaller the better. i had one with 0.8mm diameter but 0.4mm would be even better) and a very calm hand

Soldering surface mount resistors is quite tricky for the first few times... I must admit that I'm not yet adept at it!

I'll get my device constructed soon. Honest

Thanks for your suggestions.

I just received the Zen remote that I ordered from buy.com. How do I disassemble it? I can't see any screws. Do I just pop the face plate?

Update: I figured this out. You just have to pop the face plate with a knife. It is slightly glued but can be popped without damage to the case.

Just to confirm the orientation of the resistors does not matter, right?

right... it doesnt matter.

Off Topic

Sorry, but no one else is talking about headphones. Specifically the jack. I had been using my C3000 as an mp3 player, but now I only receive one channel, unless I push the plug to one side. I've seen this before in small radios. It's likely the jack is bent near where it connects to the board.

I have yet to take my Z apart, but my experience has been dismal trying to repair these things. Any hints or tricks? I don't want to risk getting no sound at all, but I would also like to get VOIP working, and not have to carry around a separate gadget to listen to podcasts.

Need more help. I went to Radio Shack, showed the guy the schematic and said that the resistors are SMD. The guy said that I need to give him more information. He showed me some resistors that were bigger. Could you provide me as much information or the place where you ordered yours? I have the Zen remote and without the right resistors it will just sit there. Please help.

If he showed you resistors that were bigger, were they the typical "cyindrical" resistors?

If you've got the remote, take it down with you and show him what you need to replace; if they stock 'em, he'll be able to provide you with them.

While looking through a Best Buy flyer I came across a PSP Headset with Speaker Phone.
(Linked to my web server... couldn't find a usuable link to Best Buy.)



It looks to be a 3.5mm jack. Anyone have an informed insight as to whether it would work?

Most probably it will not work, as the plug has 4 conductors. The Z needs a plug with 3 conductors - like on a standard telephone headset connector...

Thanks. I'll try another Radio Shack because the guy in the store I went to first was clueless.

hi there
what about the GlobalSat BTH-830 bluetooth audio kit ???

http://www.usglobalsat.com/item.asp?itemid=99

it looks just wonderful! i mean you plug it to the audio output of the Z; it enables you to do stereo bluetooth output to the tranceiver; then you plug your favourite headeset (koss?) into the receiver and there you bluetooth-paired it with your gsm phone!
now you can remotely listen to the Z playing xmms, and you can receive phone call (and talk!) without a move!
i wonder if the remote control would manage xmms with a plugin (it can mage window$ media player...)
what do you think about that ?

GadgetGuy,

I'm a bit confused, as this thread has gone into building one. Is there any headset in the market, accourding to your research, that uses the appropiate 3.5 mm plug and works out of the box with the 3100? I did get a couple of adaptors from local Radioshack and from Amazon with no luck.... probably I got a wrong connector. But leaving "building it" aside, is there any that I could just buy?

Regards,

Otto

You can't do that.

I tried modifying the Zen micro remote as in your schematic (only using resistor values for the CE-RH1, since I have a C760), and was disappointed when FW, RW, and Vol - didn't work.

I took a closer look at the schematic, and saw why: all the resistor values on the switches depend on the previous values of all the resistors in line (that's why the values roughly double each time). If you change the orders of the resistors, the total resistance value will be wrong, and the Zaurus won't know how to respond. If you're lucky, it may work the way it was originally intended, but you'll most likely get an error and the remote will stop working.

Here's an example of why. For the FW key, the switch completes the circuit at R4, which means it includes the values of R2 and R3. If you use the values in the intended sequence, you get a resistance of (330 + 470+ 690) = 1490. For RW, the switch completes the circuit at R5, which means it includes R2, R3 and R4, so if you press RW with the correct values you get (330 + 470 + 690 + 910) = 2400

If you swap R4 and R5, then for the the FW keypress you get a value of (330 + 470+ 910) = 1710, and for RW you still get (330 + 470 + 910 + 690) = 2400

The 1710 value will likely be out of the expected range, and cause an error. The RW should still work normally, even with the resistors reversed.

You can't swap key actions by swapping the resistor values.

If I've confused anyone, let me know and I'll explain again with pictures.

Bottom line: I put the resistors back the the proper order, and my Zen Micro remote conversion to CE-RH1 values now works as expected, although some of the switches are labelled wrong. I'll either live with it, relabel the switches (I think they can be swapped), or use Keyhelper or other routine to change the functions of the switches in software.

MONVMENTVM -- thanks for the info on using the Zen Micro remote -- it's really a lot better than I would have built from scratch. I personally think it looks nicer than the Sharp remotes.

David

hi
i'm about buying shap ce-rh2 remote control for my c3000. i wonder how good is kino2 support with the rh2 on the c3000 ? any thoughts ?

an alternative would be the bluetrade bluetooth stereo xmiter/receiver...
but it is a much expensive solution ;-)

since the move of the forums (just before xmas 2005) caused the loss of all attachments, and this thread has proved invaluable to me and I happened to save most of the attached images, I have uploaded them to http://www.zaurus.org.uk/download/images/

I am going to make an adaptor cable which will allow me to plug a regular PC headset (stereo headphone/microphone combo) into my Z 3100. It means I can use a decent pair of headphones with a separate mic, or, use a headset:
I bought a 4-way 3.5mm jack plug, and a couple of inline 3.5mm stereo sockets. I will also try and adapt or make a remote control which will plug into the mic socket, if I can find something small enough I will make it part of the cable.

At the moment I use a dedicated mono headset where I chopped off the two plugs and used an ordinary stereo (3-way) plug, soldered the speaker to one, mic to other. Works well, but means I then have too much to carry if I want to use Z for music too.

Hi,

if it is just for using kphone, you can use a cheap headset from a cellphone also, it will do the job and normally these headsets are quite small...

Br,
Gatu

Anyone tried motorola's bluetooth speakerphone module? BT on my Z has never worked, so I'll try out my headset once I upgrade to OZ. Does alsa even support this?