Help - Search - Members - Calendar
Full Version: Instructions For Adding Bluetooth To Sl6000
OESF Forums > General Forums > General Support and Discussion > Hardware Mods
Pages: 1, 2
guylhem

Update on 07-06-06:
Attention - It seems that the module needed is not a C09 but a C19 - Speculatrix is inquiring on this. Please do not purchase a C09.


Hello

As I promised long ago, here are some instructions to add bluetooth to your SL6000 Zaurus.

1. Purchase a WML AHR C09 from Segor.de
2. Open your zaurus
3. See the attached picture of a Zaurus without Bluetooth, compared to a Zaurus with Bluetooth
4. Solder the chip accordingly. Note : the long line and the big X are for the antenna. The AHR C09 has an antenna built it, so don't bother.
5. Install bluez, start with:

hciattach /dev/ttyS2 csr 115200
hcid -f /etc/bluetooth/hcid.conf
sdpd

This will hopefully start bluetooth and lit the blue led.

Then:
hcitool scan
to try to find your cellphone
sdptool browse cellphone_mac_addres
to find the serial port (usually 1)
rfcomm connect 0 cellphone_mac_address serial_port

this way /dev/rfcomm0 will be your cellphone

6. Enjoy the cool hack, and wait for the next upgrade (921 kbps bluetooth)

Guylhem
guylhem
Please note it has been untested since ATM I'm out of WML C09
Yet others have solder different WML modules and reported success. This module is just easier to find and add, since it has the same dimensions.

Guylhem
speculatrix
QUOTE(guylhem @ Oct 14 2005, 08:58 AM)
Please note it has been untested since ATM I'm out of WML C09 
Yet others have solder different WML modules and reported success. This module is just easier to find and add, since it has the same dimensions.
*


great, thanks for this. I am definitely going to do this when my 6000 arrives!

do you happen to know if they do a discount for more than, say, five, and perhaps a bunch of us can do a group buy?
guylhem
QUOTE(speculatrix @ Oct 14 2005, 11:28 PM)
do you happen to know if they do a discount for more than, say, five, and perhaps a bunch of us can do a group buy?
*


I don't. Ask them :-)
speculatrix
I got a reply from segor.de - I emailed because I couldn't navigate their site.

thank you for your inquiry. WML-C09-AHR is currently available in our
stock, price is EUR 39,00 per piece EXW Berlin, german VAT (16%)
included.

Cheapest method of shipment to UK is by "international letter" at a
freight rate of EUR 7,--. For other carriers (UPS, FedEx, ...) please
ask.

Payment for international shipment is in advance by T/T (bank-transfer
of EU-type with IBAN+BIC) or by PayPal. Sorry, we do not accept credit
cards directly but you can use it at www.paypal.com.

We will provide bank/paypal account information together with final
amount and invoice no. upon receipt of your order. As soon as we
receive the transfer we will then ship the parts to you.

Offer is subject to prior sale.

With best regards

SEGOR-electronics GmbH
- Dipl.-Ing. Th. Thiele -
aki
QUOTE(speculatrix @ Oct 15 2005, 07:28 AM)
do you happen to know if they do a discount for more than, say, five, and perhaps a bunch of us can do a group buy?
*

Speculatrix, did you get an answer to the above?
I am also planning in purchasing the chip, so it seems likely that we would be able to place an order for several pieces.
speculatrix
QUOTE(aki @ Oct 23 2005, 05:19 AM)
QUOTE(speculatrix @ Oct 15 2005, 07:28 AM)
do you happen to know if they do a discount for more than, say, five, and perhaps a bunch of us can do a group buy?
*

Speculatrix, did you get an answer to the above?
I am also planning in purchasing the chip, so it seems likely that we would be able to place an order for several pieces.
*



I didn't ask them if they'd do a discount for more than one. It didn't seem that there are enough people interesting in it - so far two of us?
aki
QUOTE(speculatrix @ Oct 23 2005, 09:47 PM)
I didn't ask them if they'd do a discount for more than one.  It didn't seem that there are enough people interesting in it - so far two of us?
*


You're right. Didn't realize it was just us.
I would think we need at least 10 to get a decent discount.
Maybe a few more folks will join?
mobilerex
QUOTE(guylhem @ Oct 14 2005, 07:54 AM)
Hello

As I promised long ago, here are some instructions to add bluetooth to your SL6000 Zaurus.

1. Purchase a WML AHR C09 from Segor.de
2. Open your zaurus
3. See the attached picture of a Zaurus without Bluetooth, compared to a Zaurus with Bluetooth
4. Solder the chip accordingly. Note : the long line and the big X are for the antenna. The AHR C09 has an antenna built it, so don't bother.
5. Install bluez, start with:

hciattach /dev/ttyS2 csr 115200
hcid -f /etc/bluetooth/hcid.conf
sdpd

This will hopefully start bluetooth and lit the blue led.

Then:
hcitool scan
to try to find your cellphone
sdptool browse cellphone_mac_addres
to find the serial port (usually 1)
rfcomm connect 0 cellphone_mac_address serial_port

this way /dev/rfcomm0 will be your cellphone

6. Enjoy the cool hack, and wait for the next upgrade (921 kbps bluetooth)

Guylhem
*



Hi,

Leafing through the manufacturers specs (http://www.mitsumi.co.jp/Catalog/hifreq/commun/wml/*) I see that the many lines have differing pinouts. So to be precise, is it the C09 or C19 (as pictured) model?

Also, the antenna is built in , right?

Cheers

MR

PS VERY cool mod biggrin.gif
neuroshock
QUOTE(guylhem @ Oct 14 2005, 07:58 AM)
Please note it has been untested since ATM I'm out of WML C09 
Yet others have solder different WML modules and reported success. This module is just easier to find and add, since it has the same dimensions.

Guylhem
*



Guyhelm,

Many questions. I have a friend that is an electronics engineer and is going to attempt this Bluetooth Hack for me. He's itching to get started and after he'd gone through all the info I had to get him he dumped a load of questions on me that he said he'd need answered before he can/will continue...so here's what I need to know to proceed. Feel free to drop me either answers or links that I can go to find out for myself, (I know you've gotta be swamped and a bit frustrated right now- TWO rc releases and another on the way in the matter of 7 days or so should wipe out anyone! I want to take the least of your time as possible.)

1. You mentioned others had soldered in different modules and reported success can you tell me what those other modules are?

2. There seems to be some confusion concerning the "blue led". I've read in one place that on 6000L's the blue led is NOT already mounted on the board, you seem to be saying above that it IS already on the board. Do you know if that will need to be added?

3. If it does need to be soldered in along with the BT module where precisely is the location of the blue led on the board? Can you provide a picture?

4. Even if it's not already on the board, will the hack work without installing the blue led?

5. He wants to be completely sure that someone has done this successfully at least once before. I told him that you said it would definitely work, but he pointed out (correctly to my embarassment on all sides) that you actually said it "should" work, not that it definitely would. Can you shed more light here? (I promise to read your posts more carfully too! As much work as you put into this i'm completely embarrased to admit I didn't even take the time to read carfully.)

6. He seems to think that it would be safer and easier from his perspective to solder wires from the surface mounts on the board and then solder them in place on the module. He says that not only is it easier from a soldering perspective but that if faster/better modules are found in the future it would be very simple to snip the wires and resolder them to the new module. He did say that it wouldn't be as "pretty" with the wires, but it sure doesn't bother me since it will be inside the case, out of view. He says that unsoldering a surface mounted component from a board often mangles the board or at the very least makes it much more difficult to resolder the new component. So his question is- how much room is there for the module to fit, is there enuf room for some tiny wires as well?

7. While he agreed that the antenna would not be essential, he implied that installing an antenna may extend the range etc. So, has anyone else who has tried this used/obtained a module with an antenna that you know of? Can an antenna be added to this module?

8. Finally as with the poster right before me he pointed out that the part number of the module you have pointed us to is not the same number as the module pictured. What is the difference between the two, or does it matter?

*whew* I'm truly sorry about the length/weight of this post, but it's getting down to the wire, (no pun intended), and I've got to scratch up answers before he'll proceed.

The GOOD news is that if we have success he may be willing to do the procedure on a few more! I haven't asked him if he meant that he would do it for free, or if he would charge- but knowing him I'm sure he wouldn't charge much even if he did. So if anyone else is interested feel free to message me after we find out if we can really make it work or not. I'll post a bazillion pics and include a documentary whether it succeeds or fails. Even if it fails maybe someone else can benefit from our experience with it.

Thanks Guyhelm!

-NeuroShock

PS If anyone besides Guyhelm would like to point us to some links, feel free to do so! I'll take any snippet if info I can on this.
speculatrix
neuroshock,
You mentioned that your friend might be willing to do more? Which country are you in?

I like the idea of soldering wires... might be fugly but definitely *safer*. would have to solder the device upside down and then criss-cross the wires over the belly of the module.
neuroshock
QUOTE(speculatrix @ Nov 2 2005, 05:18 PM)
neuroshock,
You mentioned that your friend might be willing to do more? Which country are you in?

I like the idea of soldering wires... might be fugly but definitely *safer*. would have to solder the device upside down and then criss-cross the wires over the belly of the module.
*



Eastern North Carolina, U S of A.

=)
guylhem
QUOTE(neuroshock @ Nov 2 2005, 09:09 AM)
1.  You mentioned others had soldered in different modules and reported success can you tell me what those other modules are?


look on the forums - dirk who is working on a 2.6 kernel for the tosa used one

QUOTE
2.  There seems to be some confusion concerning the "blue led".  I've read in one place that on 6000L's the blue led is NOT already mounted on the board, you seem to be saying above that it IS already on the board.  Do you know if that will need to be added?


it is not on the board. you will also need white translucent plastic to conduct the light to the front panel, instead of the black plastic you have

QUOTE
3.  If it does need to be soldered in along with the BT module where precisely is the location of the blue led on the board?  Can you provide a picture?


can't for now

QUOTE
4.  Even if it's not already on the board, will the hack work without installing the blue led?


it will

QUOTE
5.  He wants to be completely sure that someone has done this successfully at least once before. I told him that you said it would definitely work, but he pointed out (correctly to my embarassment on all sides) that you actually said it "should" work, not that it definitely would.  Can you shed more light here? (I promise to read your posts more carfully too! As much work as you put into this i'm completely embarrased to admit I didn't even take the time to read carfully.)


dirk did that. i will try that on a dead 6000 i should receive soon, if i can find a way to feed it power via direct motherboard soldering, to try to practice other surgery on it

QUOTE
6.  He seems to think that it would be safer and easier from his perspective to solder wires from the surface mounts on the board and then solder them in place on the module.  He says that not only is it easier from a soldering perspective but that if faster/better modules are found in the future it would be very simple to snip the wires and resolder them to the new module.  He did say that it wouldn't be as "pretty" with the wires, but it sure doesn't bother me since it will be inside the case, out of view. He says that unsoldering a surface mounted component from a board often mangles the board or at the very least makes it much more difficult to resolder the new component.  So his question is- how much room is there for the module to fit, is there enuf room for some tiny wires as well?


if he uses stripping wire, yes

QUOTE
7.  While he agreed that the antenna would not be essential, he implied that installing an antenna may extend the range etc. So, has anyone else who has tried this used/obtained a module with an antenna that you know of? Can an antenna be added to this module?


the wml ahr c09 has an integrated antenna - that's not an issue

QUOTE
8.  Finally as with the poster right before me he pointed out that the part number of the module you have pointed us to is not the same number as the module pictured.  What is the difference between the two, or does it matter?


integrated antenna. it matters if you want good reception

QUOTE
The GOOD news is that if we have success he may be willing to do the procedure on a few more!  I haven't asked him if he meant that he would do it for free, or if he would charge- but knowing him I'm sure he wouldn't charge much even if he did.  So if anyone else is interested feel free to message me after we find out if we can really make it work or not.  I'll post a bazillion pics and include a documentary whether it succeeds or fails.  Even if it fails maybe someone else can benefit from our experience with it.


that'd be great for fellow 6000 users. personally, i'm still waiting on the chips for the memory/flash upgrade attempt.

i've many fun projects, and little time unfortunately

guylhem
neuroshock
Well, I dug up everything I could find by searching the forums for "Dirk". He has made a total of 3 posts since joining the zug. The content of those posts are as follows:

********************************************************************
dirk
Posted on: Jun 16 2005, 06:37 AM

Recently I soldered a Mitsumi Bluetooth module into my Sl-6000. This works very well.

A picture is available here http://www.do13.de/openzaurus/pictures/tosa_bluetooth.jpg

This project isn't finished. The switching of the supply voltage is missing.
If this step is done I will provide some further information.

Cheers
Dirk
********************************************************************
dirk
Posted on: May 10 2005, 08:39 AM

QUOTE(guylhem @ Apr 26 2005, 09:23 PM)
segor.de : WML AHR C09

6 wires and you're done (TX RX CTS RTS GND 5V)

I'am also interested in soldering a bluetooth module into my Sl-6000. Do you know the pinout of the pads for the internal module?

Dirk
********************************************************************
dirk
Posted on: Apr 13 2005, 07:57 PM

QUOTE
can anyone give an idea when (or even if ) 2.6 will be available on the 6000?


2.6 for the sl-6000 is in a early stage. Only a few drivers are ready:

- Keyboard
- Nand
- Display
- Backlight
- PCMCIA
- IRDA
- SD/MMC
- USB client

Things which needs to be ported:

- AC97 (Sound / Touchscreen)
- USB -Host (WLAN)
- Charging stuff
- Bluetooth
- Expansion jacket
- Some issues with suspend / resume

So this kernel isn't really usable at this time. All these patches are available in openembedded.

Cheers,
Dirk
********************************************************************


Anyhow, it wasn't exactly the treasure trove of knowledge that I was hoping for but it's a start. I've sent him a personal message requesting the part number for the Mitsumi module that he used. I've also asked if he installed the blue LED and exactly what parts and method he used to do so. I WAS pleased to see in the link that he provided that he decided to go the "wire" route himself.

My major concern with using his experience as a precedent is the ambiguity of his post on the subject. He says to begin with that "this works very well", and that makes me think he had a solid finished product. However he then in the same posts says "This project isn't finished. The switching of the supply voltage is missing. If this step is done I will provide some further information." and I don't know if he means that the switching of the supply voltage is a necessary step he still needs to finish in order to have a finished product, or if that was just something "extra" that would better the performance, (such as give greater range etc.) It's not very encouraging that he never provided the further information that he hoped he would be able to.

At any rate, my friend was elated at finding out most of the details (such as the blue led being non-essential to the working product) etc. but reiterated that he wishes to see that a finish product was installed AND definitely worked in conjuction with a few peripherals- such as a bt phone or keyboard/mouse before he is willing to start working on the first 6000L. Being that he is my only pheasible way to get this done, I'm REAAAAALLY hoping I can get word back from Dirk soon.

Again, I'll let everyone know how things go as we progress.

Thanks Guyhelm- as always you've been a HUGE source of knowledge (folks like you absolutely amaze me- your cross-discipline knowledge is truly astonishing!)

Be Safe Everyone,

-NeuroShock
neuroshock
Update,

To make a long venture short- we finally did find a replacement clamp and since my friend is out of town until Christmas I sent it to a semi-local prefab here in NC that I found that was willing to do the repair. The whole thing set me back$92 but I'm happy to pay it and cut my losses.

Alls well that ends well!
Mjolinor
If your mate fails and you are in the UK then I'll have a look at it for you. I have never had one in bits as I only just got my first one but I do mend a lot of laptops for local shops, have mended loads of Ipaqs and Palms and I do have the stuff necessary like stereo microscopes and rework stations.

Don't even consider me until you have exhausted all other possibilities and don't expect miracles but cracked boards and components are usually fixable.

Your starting point should be to see if it syncs or if you run SSH can you still connect. The fact that it came on initially, pink then white then nothing doesn't suggest to me damage from being dropped unless the screen broke, what sort of backlight do they have? It sounds like a normal flourescent.

If it is the screen or backlight then unplugging the screen and backlight completely should allow it to boot normally and it may sync or allow SSH then, after removing hte new Bluetooth unit of course.
speculatrix
QUOTE(neuroshock @ Nov 2 2005, 06:48 PM)
QUOTE(speculatrix @ Nov 2 2005, 05:18 PM)
neuroshock,
You mentioned that your friend might be willing to do more? Which country are you in?

Eastern North Carolina, U S of A.

oh well. I've found someone in the local linux users group who has *some* surface mount expertise, so I will probably have to go with that. I think the bluetooth module will be much easier than the extra flash module.
neuroshock
QUOTE(speculatrix @ Nov 3 2005, 10:04 AM)
QUOTE(neuroshock @ Nov 2 2005, 06:48 PM)
QUOTE(speculatrix @ Nov 2 2005, 05:18 PM)
neuroshock,
You mentioned that your friend might be willing to do more? Which country are you in?

Eastern North Carolina, U S of A.

oh well. I've found someone in the local linux users group who has *some* surface mount expertise, so I will probably have to go with that. I think the bluetooth module will be much easier than the extra flash module.
*




From having a first hand look inside I must vehemently agree with you. Of the Nand/Flash mem and bluetooth hacks the bluetooth portion will DEFINITELY be the easiest. My friend even made the comment that the bluetooth soldering was even possible by a non-pro if he had a really good soldering iron with a very fine tip point and a steady hand. When looking at the memory upgrade area he mumbled something like: "THAT would need to be chemically affixed or sma mounted *mumble mumble (insert 4-letter word here) mumble- impossible without a sma machine *mumble mumble.* I have NO clue what a sma machine is and I may be misquoting him out of ignorance but he said it would be haaaard. The solder points for the memory upgrade are actually bunder and totally covered by the chip to be installed.

-NeuroShock
Mjolinor
I'm off to Boston in two weeks, the company I work for are based there smile.gif

Anyway, if the connector you are talking about is similar to the screen connector for an Ipaq then you have 0 chance of repairing it, I have tried on numerous occasions and it never ever works. Once the locking bar is cracked it will not hold the ribbon tight enough no matter how careful you are. The only way I have found to fix it is to remove the connector completely and solder the ribbon to the motherboard. I have never replaced a connector because the tight gits wanted $30 for it and it's maybe $2 worth. I don't mind anyone making a profit but that was obscene.

Do not be tempted to try any kind of epoxy on the existing connector you will trash it.

Post a picture of it, I have a bazillion old laptops here and there may just be one, you never know.
DrWowe
QUOTE(neuroshock @ Nov 3 2005, 05:56 AM)
However, I'm gonna have a SERIOUSLY difficult time producing the courage to let him or anyone break open my remaining 6k after this tragedy.

Maybe just promise to stand at least 6-8 feet away. Bring binoculars if you want to watch the details. dry.gif
dirk
QUOTE(neuroshock @ Nov 3 2005, 04:30 AM)
Well, I dug up everything I could find by searching the forums for "Dirk". He has made a total of 3 posts since joining the zug. The content of those posts are as follows:
........
Anyhow, it wasn't exactly the treasure trove of knowledge that I was hoping for but it's a start.  I've sent him a personal message requesting the part number for the Mitsumi module that he used.
I've also asked if he installed the blue LED and exactly what parts and method he used to do so. I WAS pleased to see in the link that he provided that he decided to go the "wire" route himself.


Sorry. I didn't received your personal message.

On my hack I used the Mitsumi WML-C20 module. I choosed this module, because it needs only one supply voltage (3.3V) and this type was still on stock at work smile.gif
But the pinout is different from the WML-C19 so I had to solder some wires.
The project isn't finished, because for powersaving reasons I will switch the supply voltage. At this time the power supply is hardwired to the internal 3.3V. My plan is to use a FET to control the power.
If you wan't the WMC-C19 module you have to solder 2 voltage regulators and some capacitors to supply the module.

Here are the missing components:


Except the power switching isssue and the missing blue led bluetooth works well on my Zaurus.

Cheers,

Dirk
bgsfh
Neuroshock, do you remember if there were open slots for two flash chips or just one? I am thinking that if we want to do the full upgrade to 128 megs we will need to buy two chips instead of one. Thanks.
neuroshock
QUOTE(bgsfh @ Nov 4 2005, 01:01 AM)
Neuroshock, do you remember if there were open slots for two flash chips or just one?  I am thinking that if we want to do the full upgrade to 128 megs we will need to buy two chips instead of one.  Thanks.
*


Yes,

There are two open slots for memory. There is a memory chip, an open space with surface mount contacts for another chip, another memory chip right next to that, and then another open space with surface mount contacts for another chip.

So originally it looks like it could have been populated with four chips instead of two. I'm not sure of how they originally planned to integrate the memory chips...It might have been that they had four "sockets" on the board with the original intent to have (4) 16mb chips but that by the time they reached actual production it was cheaper to purchase (2) 32mb chips. Ultimately the REAL question will not be if two more memory chips can be mounted on the board, but rather whether the memory controller can address the larger amount of memory. (Hopefully someone already knows the answer to this for sure.) If nobody knows right now then there's only one way to find out- mount 'em and try it.

Dirk,
Thank you VERY much for replying here in this forum- I have no clue as to why you didn't receive the PM- Not the first time that problem has occured for me though, very frustrating.

But at any rate thank you VERY much from all of us for replying so quickly and with such great information and pictures. Right now you're my hero, as you're the only person I've been able to verify that has completed this hack and has a working finished product. Hopefully the rest of us can follow you shortly, but a HUGE thanks for blazing a trail for us.

One thing I can add- to expand upon Guyhelm's description of the blue LED, even if you install the blue LED you have to have a clear plastic channel (kinda fiber opticish) to pull the light from the LED to it's appropriate position on the case. There is a black "dummy" version of the piece I'm talking about, (same size and shape as the clear pieces that go to the other 3 led's), that currently occupies the slot where we want a new clear one to be so the blue bluetooth led would show to theoutside of the case. I guess they're using is as something of a placeholder.

My two ideas on the best way to make/achieve a factory quality piece to replace the "dummy" is to either:

1. Buy a 6000 that has been "bricked", unless the whole device has been crushed there is really nothing that a dead 6000 could have done in it's death throes to ruin the piece we want. Then just steal the clear plastic piece from the 'bricked' 6000 and install it in place of the dummy and voila! A factory finish.

2. take the black "dummy" insert and make a mold of it with play-do or wax etc. then remove the insert and use the mold to cast a clear version- normal elmer's glue, possibly hot glue from a glue gun, etc. would make a good molded finished product. I've used this process in the past to make factory looking components for laptops etc. It takes time but if you're interested in doing a first class hack, why not go all the way?


Progress is being made- now hopefully my 6k can be raised from the dead so I can continue to participate. =\

Be Safe,

-NeuroShock

NOTE: Edited on 11-04-2005 for clarity.
neuroshock
QUOTE(dirk @ Nov 3 2005, 10:24 PM)
If you wan't the WMC-C19 module you have to solder 2 voltage regulators and some capacitors to supply the module.

Here are the missing components:


Dirk,

First of all thanks for your time in advance- It is generous for you to take the time to answer our questions. When you get some time to do so could you please tell us the exact number of Voltage Regulators and Capacitors, as well as thier numeric values so that we can make sure we purchase the correct components?
Thank you SO much for your help Dirk, we'd be dead in the water without you.

(I wish I could PM this, but that doesn't seem to be working for me for unknown reasons, so I hope you happen to revisit this thread soon!)

-NeuroShock


Boy am I glad he posted. If the C09 is identical to the C19 in every way except that it has an internal antennae, then my guess is that it will require the added 2 Voltage Regulators and Capacitors to supply the module the correct voltage as well. That would have been a real fly-in-the-ointment to get the module installed as we only thought it was just hooking the 6 contacts on the module up to make it work- it wouldn't have.
The good news is that we know the LOCATIONS now of where those components go thanks to Dirk's pictures.

I believe it would be in our best interest as a group to begin a web-page devoted exclusively to this mini-project. I can provide the web-hosting and bandwidth myself at danzweb.com- it's already paid for and I only use the mail subsytem, there's NO html content at all which is quite a waste. I'm really cruddy with design and my ability to create web-pages is dismal at best. So if someone will throw together an actual "page" for it I'll foot the bill. Just PM or email me and I'll email you all the pictures and known content/info we currently have to put there.
I also believe we should procure some white-papers/spec sheets on all of the components discussed thus far and post them, or links to them. Since reading Dirk's last post my 'neering buddy has decided that we surely do not have all the info we need before we proceed, not even a good list of all necessary components.

Good news btw! (And some humorous news to go with it..) In the mean time he located a vendor selling the clamping device and has one on order from them. (Mjolinor, you were SO right- they wanted $43usd for the thing- Highway Robbery! But I gladly paid it since it would not only correctly (and permanently) fix my $500 Zaurus... AND because it would allow me to continue with this project.)

The Humorous part I mentioned was that my family (where they got the money I will never know) has done a "buy it now" on a brand-new never-been-out-of-the-box Z6kL to replace my "dead" one it should arrive next week. They gave it to me as an early Christmas Present since I was so depressed about my other one dying. *sigh* Now the LAST thing I wanted for Christmas was a third 6k, but maybe I can ebay it so that I can get something I really want. But it was very heartwarming as a gift, we are on a VERY fixed income and to do this they must have been saving for a very very long time. It was definitely one of those "cry and hug yer family" kodak moments.

So- all's well that ends well!

Cheers All,

-NeuroShock

PS. One day I WILL make a short forum post. I promise.
neuroshock
Ummm. Just re-read my last post. Can someone tell from the picture what the numeric values, specs of the missing components are? Maybe he gave us the info we need and I just don't understand how to interpret it. I'll also ask my friend this same question- but won't see him until late tonight at the earliest.

-NeuroShock
dirk
QUOTE(neuroshock @ Nov 4 2005, 02:08 PM)
Ummm. Just re-read my last post.  Can someone tell from the picture what the numeric values, specs of the missing components are?  Maybe he gave us the info we need and I just don't understand how to interpret it.  I'll also ask my friend this same question- but won't see him until late tonight at the earliest.

-NeuroShock
*


I added the numbers to mark the power supply pins from the bluetooth module. The 2 testpoints near the numbers are the output of the missing voltage regulators.
The other voltage regulator used in the 6000 are Toko TK112. So I guess the missing ones are from the same type. I pinout is identical.

TK112

It seems ST has a second source, but I haven't tried to get samples.

Which bluetooth module do you have?

Cheers

Dirk
Mjolinor
Well done to that man that fixed it, I have spent hours trying. $43, it's worth it for a 6000 but definitely not for an Ipaq 3630 smile.gif
guylhem
Hello

regarding the cjips for an upgrade:
- we need 2 ram chips for each Z
- we need 1 flash chip for each Z

Regarding the plastic to bring the light out, your ideas seems the best one. I should receive a dead 6000L for experimental surgery (waiting for it...). I can certainly send you one of its plastic bits.

Guylhem
BarryW
Hey guys, for the light pipe, you can use a piece of toslink cable for surround sound systems. It's just really thick optical cable. I used some on my hacked orinoco gold card, works great. I'll post some picks later. Also for the guys in the states, don't know about europe, you can get the fiber optic light add-on things for mini-mag lights, same stuff, but alot cheaper. http://www.niteize.com/productdetail.php?c...8&product_id=68
loc4me
Regarding the WML-C09-AHR chip that Guylhem recomened. Does anyone (DIRK) know if that chip is able to just be mounted/soldered and go. Will it work with out the voltage regulators and such. Or does it even need them.

I have also contacted segor.de about the WML-C09-AHR chip. They are very good about replying to my emails which is great b/c i cant read there website. Shipping is very expensive to the US though. i am thinking about shipping to the UK where my mother is visiting for couple weeks then have here bring it back for me.

-mark
DrWowe
QUOTE(neuroshock @ Nov 3 2005, 07:46 PM)
So originally it looks like it could have been populated with four chips instead of two.  I'm not sure of how they originally planned to integrate the memory chips

If you read the original announcement of the SL-6000, there were 4 models planned. One of them was the SL-6000D with 128 megs of flash, but I don't think it was ever released.

But I think that explains the extra sockets in the design.
loc4me
QUOTE(DrWowe @ Nov 5 2005, 06:08 PM)
QUOTE(neuroshock @ Nov 3 2005, 07:46 PM)
So originally it looks like it could have been populated with four chips instead of two.  I'm not sure of how they originally planned to integrate the memory chips

If you read the original announcement of the SL-6000, there were 4 models planned. One of them was the SL-6000D with 128 megs of flash, but I don't think it was ever released.

But I think that explains the extra sockets in the design.
*



Actually it was released. At least one person on these forums has gotten ahold of a real one (not hacked to 128mb). See this post here

-Mark
DrWowe
QUOTE(loc4me @ Nov 5 2005, 08:43 PM)
Actually it was released. At least one person on these forums has gotten ahold of a real one (not hacked to 128mb). See this post here

Not to nitpick, but the poster in that thread pretty clearly said it was pre-release model. Of course there were a few prototypes, but I still don't think it was ever released.
loc4me
QUOTE(DrWowe @ Nov 6 2005, 12:20 AM)
QUOTE(loc4me @ Nov 5 2005, 08:43 PM)
Actually it was released. At least one person on these forums has gotten ahold of a real one (not hacked to 128mb). See this post here

Not to nitpick, but the poster in that thread pretty clearly said it was pre-release model. Of course there were a few prototypes, but I still don't think it was ever released.
*



Okay fine. I will give you that, but some one has one. Wether or not it was offically released i have no idea.

-Mark
speculatrix
QUOTE(loc4me @ Nov 5 2005, 11:58 PM)
Regarding the  WML-C09-AHR chip that Guylhem recomened. Does anyone (DIRK) know if that chip is able to just be mounted/soldered and go. Will it work with out the voltage regulators and such. Or does it even need them.

Guylhem implied in his original post that it was pin-for-pin compatible. Hopefully he can confirm this.
QUOTE
I have also contacted segor.de about the WML-C09-AHR chip. They are very good about replying to my emails which is great b/c i cant read there website. Shipping is very expensive to the US though. i am thinking about shipping to the UK where my mother is visiting for couple weeks then have here bring it back for me.
*


me too.
I am willing to be a conduit to buy a bunch of these if people are interested, as I could probably get a small discount for, say, five. However, since these AFAIK are parts from Japan, there must be a US-based distributor for Mitsumi? who has them.
dirk
QUOTE(speculatrix @ Nov 16 2005, 02:36 PM)
me too.
I am willing to be a conduit to buy a bunch of these if people are interested, as I could probably get a  small discount for, say, five. However, since these AFAIK are parts from Japan, there must be a US-based distributor for Mitsumi? who has them.
*


For an US- based distributor have a look at this site:

US distributor

Dirk
loc4me
QUOTE(speculatrix @ Nov 16 2005, 08:36 AM)
QUOTE(loc4me @ Nov 5 2005, 11:58 PM)
Regarding the  WML-C09-AHR chip that Guylhem recomened. Does anyone (DIRK) know if that chip is able to just be mounted/soldered and go. Will it work with out the voltage regulators and such. Or does it even need them.

Guylhem implied in his original post that it was pin-for-pin compatible. Hopefully he can confirm this.
QUOTE
I have also contacted segor.de about the WML-C09-AHR chip. They are very good about replying to my emails which is great b/c i cant read there website. Shipping is very expensive to the US though. i am thinking about shipping to the UK where my mother is visiting for couple weeks then have here bring it back for me.
*


me too.
I am willing to be a conduit to buy a bunch of these if people are interested, as I could probably get a small discount for, say, five. However, since these AFAIK are parts from Japan, there must be a US-based distributor for Mitsumi? who has them.
*



I would be willing to go in on a bundle of chips. I have a couple of Zaurii that i would like to mod with the BT hack. My only concern is that the voltage regulators will need to be installed. I have asked Dirk about them but i still dont understand why they are needed. It seems to work with out them. i gather that they are need to shut it off and supply PROPER voltage to it.

-Mark
guylhem
Hello

Regarding dirk issues with power, I think he just can't power off the module ie it's always draining the battery. but it eats so little power than it should be neglibigle. If you use a WML AHR C09, you will not have that problem as it'll work just like in a standard Zaurus.

For your friend, I suggest soldering a WML AHR C09 by wires. If you want to do it cheap, a Billionton module like the one used by AlbertR should be fine. I've purchased some and I'm testing them. I'll be happy to offer you one if you want, but I'd suggest you the WML AHR C09, if only for the power issues and my experience with it on the simpad (works like a charm! associates to cellphone, keyboards etc)

BTW, I finally started working on the dead 6000L I was offered. It is dead as can be. The motherboard sustained power damages IMHO, ie I can't test the memory upgrades I'll be doing and I've had no news from bfgh regarding the chip purchases.

Anyway, it's a first step. I'll try to purchase a 6000 with a broken screen for the motherboard.

Guylhem
speculatrix
welcome back, Guylhem.

QUOTE(guylhem @ Nov 17 2005, 12:09 PM)
For your friend, I suggest soldering a WML AHR C09 by wires

do you mean that you can't just solder it in place, or is it simply safer to do it like that so it can be easily removed?

QUOTE
motherboard sustained power damages IMHO, ie I can't test the memory upgrades I'll be doing and I've had no news from bfgh regarding the chip purchases.


how easy would it be to remove the flash chip off that 6000 and try them in another one?
guylhem
simpler and safer - you can easily remove it.

removing the flash chip - quite complicated. I will have to ask a few local specialist, but it'll be hard. Having a dead motherboard to practice will make it easier however

But first I need the flash chips. No news on the order. I'll keep you informed.
loc4me
QUOTE(guylhem @ Nov 17 2005, 06:09 AM)
Hello

Regarding dirk issues with power, I think he just can't power off the module ie it's always draining the battery. but it eats so little power than it should be neglibigle. If you use a WML AHR C09, you will not have that problem as it'll work just like in a standard Zaurus.

For your friend, I suggest soldering a WML AHR C09 by wires. If you want to do it cheap, a Billionton module like the one used by AlbertR should be fine.  I've purchased some and I'm testing them. I'll be happy to offer you one if you want, but I'd suggest you the WML AHR C09, if only for the power issues and my experience with it on the simpad (works like a charm! associates to cellphone, keyboards etc)

Guylhem
*


Guylhem,
Are you able to turn your blue tooth module on and off? If not, do you know how it is done on the ture 6000W? I would be interested in one of the Billionton modules. I do think i would go the wire way instead of soldering directly to the motherboard?

Also, this is a silly question but does you think outside Keyboard and mouse work with the module? what is the range?

Is there not away to turn off the chip my software like the internal wireless. Do you know how that is done??

Thanks for the Help.

-Mark
guylhem
on and off - no problem, but I don't have a billionton. simply accessing the seral port turns it on or off.

the wire way is necessary for a billionton.

regarding range, I never tried a lot. 2 meters max, but maybe it could do more
guylhem
QUOTE(Mjolinor @ Nov 3 2005, 04:25 AM)
I'm off to Boston in two weeks, the company I work for are based there smile.gif

Anyway, if the connector you are talking about is similar to the screen connector for an Ipaq then you have 0 chance of repairing it, I have tried on numerous occasions and it never ever works. Once the locking bar is cracked it will not hold the ribbon tight enough no matter how careful you are. The only way I have found to fix it is to remove the connector completely and solder the ribbon to the motherboard. I have never replaced a connector because the tight gits wanted $30 for it and it's maybe $2 worth. I don't mind anyone making a profit but that was obscene.

Do not be tempted to try any kind of epoxy on the existing connector you will trash it.

Post a picture of it, I have a bazillion old laptops here and there may just be one, you never know.
*


OOps. I just also broke my LCD connector while trying to fix stuff in the dead 6000 - in fact 1 pin only, but it's grey screen :-/

It is a FF0251SS1 - the minimal order is for 3000 pieces at $3.40 each. Any help would be welcome.
loc4me
QUOTE(guylhem @ Nov 17 2005, 06:35 PM)
on and off - no problem, but I don't have a billionton. simply accessing the seral port turns it on or off.

the wire way is necessary for a billionton.

regarding range, I never tried a lot. 2 meters max, but maybe it could do more
*


Guylhem,
I have been looking for the billionton modules. Is thiswhat you are talking about??

I guess i still dont understand how you turn it on and off. Is it buy software? you said by accessing the serial port? Also how integrated into you rom is it? Is it really easy to connect peripherials such as KB and mouse, cellphone?

Sorry to hear about your LCD but speaking of your bricked 6000. Is there a way i could buy one of the clear plastic covers for the led lights so i can add a light for the blue tooth at some point when i get it working?

-Mark
guylhem
Hello

Check albertr website for pics of the dongles that work. To turn on and off I've never done that with billionton- I guess by software it will be fine. It's quite integrated because I use a bt mouse and cellphone a lot.

Regarding the leds cover, I will try to get some for you. I have already extracted the plastic that neuroshock needed.

Guylhem
speculatrix
QUOTE(loc4me @ Nov 5 2005, 11:58 PM)
Regarding the  WML-C09-AHR chip that Guylhem recomened. Does anyone (DIRK) know if that chip is able to just be mounted/soldered and go. Will it work with out the voltage regulators and such. Or does it even need them.

I have also contacted segor.de about the WML-C09-AHR chip. They are very good about replying to my emails which is great b/c i cant read there website. Shipping is very expensive to the US though. i am thinking about shipping to the UK where my mother is visiting for couple weeks then have here bring it back for me.

-mark
*


Guyhlem has confirmed that the WML-C09 device can literally be dropped on the PC B and soldered in - so it's very low risk. It's only IF you want to be able to remove it that you'd use wires.

I was going to wait till the memory chips were on their way, but seems like it's a way off, so I want to order a bluetooth module from Segor soon. I am in the UK, so is there anyone who wants to share the postage to the UK? I could post to the USA too, but that only makes sense if there's no local seller (someone pointed out a local distributor).

Paul
guylhem
speculatrix,

I have a 6000L which needs serious surgery on my desk, and a WML AHR C09.
I will try to take a pic so you can see for yourself how it match (look for the 6000D or 6000W motherboard scan - you will recognise the chip)

However, I must repeat again, I did not yet perform the surgery, because the 6000L is *not* working. I can solder it as much as I want - I can't test it until it's revived.

I need SMD soldering to do that... currently exploring my local options, with little hope.

Guylhem
loc4me
QUOTE(speculatrix @ Dec 6 2005, 04:33 PM)
QUOTE(loc4me @ Nov 5 2005, 11:58 PM)
Regarding the  WML-C09-AHR chip that Guylhem recomened. Does anyone (DIRK) know if that chip is able to just be mounted/soldered and go. Will it work with out the voltage regulators and such. Or does it even need them.

I have also contacted segor.de about the WML-C09-AHR chip. They are very good about replying to my emails which is great b/c i cant read there website. Shipping is very expensive to the US though. i am thinking about shipping to the UK where my mother is visiting for couple weeks then have here bring it back for me.

-mark
*


Guyhlem has confirmed that the WML-C09 device can literally be dropped on the PC B and soldered in - so it's very low risk. It's only IF you want to be able to remove it that you'd use wires.

I was going to wait till the memory chips were on their way, but seems like it's a way off, so I want to order a bluetooth module from Segor soon. I am in the UK, so is there anyone who wants to share the postage to the UK? I could post to the USA too, but that only makes sense if there's no local seller (someone pointed out a local distributor).

Paul
*



I did not order the chips and have then sent to my Mom while she was in the UK, but i am still very interested in getting a couple. I would be up for using you as a middle man. I could use 2 chips. If you have enough peolple who want to get in on this let me know so i can send you money.

-Mark
xjqian
Count me in for the Bluetooth upgrade and the WML-C09-AHR chip. I'm located in St. Louis, MO, USA. Let me know when you guys in the states are ready to place an order.
wired
Yeah, count me in aswell.
Im about to recieve a 6000, and bluetooth is usefull!
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.
Invision Power Board © 2001-2014 Invision Power Services, Inc.