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iamasmith
This is a walkthrough of the process.

Do NOT try this unless all of the following criteria are met.

1. You don't care about the Warranty of either the device or the card.
2. You have a single screwdriver that will fit the screws of the Zaurus (they are all pretty much the same).
3. You have a soldering iron and skills necessary to use it.
4. You are really so driven to do it that you have to do it.

Do NOT complain to me, Sharp, your vendor or anyone if you break it badly.

Quite probable pitfalls..

1. You have chosen a card that has slightly higher power requirements than the Microdrive.. will cause failures immediately. Note, a working card in the CF slot does NOT mean a working card inside the Zaurus.
2. Your card may fail much quicker than the Microdrive - Trisoft had a card fail within 1 week of fitting it.
3. You may well strip the screws on the PCB of the Zaurus when removing it.. those robots at Sharp screw em in hard and you MUST have a screwdriver that fits exactly.
4. If you are particularly 'cack-handed' or have a screw driver that doesn't fit then the screw driver may slip and gouge a fairly important part of the unit.
5. You could crack the board.
6. You could zap components with static off your body.
7. You could seriously frustrate yourself tongue.gif

OK.. enough of the warnings, here is the nitty gritty.

Remove all obvious components from the base unit..

* CF Blank, Battery Cover, Battery, Stylus, SD Card Blank an Service Console Gromit from the back of the unit

Click to view attachment

Remove all the screws. Be particularly careful not to lose the screws at the base of the battery compartment inside the unit.

Note all screws are exactly the same so there is no need to ensure that you have them noted for replacement in the same holes.

With the utmost care remove the back housing.. it may seem to come free from the side nearest the SD slot first. Once it is free like this lift the side nearest the battery compartment (the other side is anchored by the earphone socket) and the back should come free without undue force.

Click to view attachment

Take a close look at the main board. The two Marked A hold the board onto the mount. The two Marked B hold the CF housing onto the other side of the board. At some point you need to take them all out, if they will easily unscrew at this point then do it. If not I will suggest a tactic after removing this board.

Now note the area marked C, this varies from Zaurus to Zaurus. some may have a wire soldered here with enough slack to allow removal of the board. If as in this case there is a Copper Foil strip soldered to the unit then you must unsolder it before removing the board.

Click to view attachment

Note that each screw has a 'copper track' artwork arrow beside it on the PCB, you will use this to reference their replacement later.

Fold back the board which should now come out quite easily being extremely careful not to damage the ribbon cables attaching it to the screen and keyboard.

Click to view attachment

remove the two flat screws from the SD controller daughter board and remove the daughter board. If you need to apply pressure to the board to do this use something as a stanchion on the other side of the board. I simply placed the CF blanking plate under that area whilst doing this.

This should now lift off.

Click to view attachment

The next step is to remove the plastic housing for the CF card which has 2 clips and 2 hooks and if you didn't remove them earlier 2 screws (previously marked as cool.gif. If you had trouble eariler then I suggest that you get the SD Card blank, apply a little tape to it and adhere the tape to the Microdrive so that it holds the SD Card blank under the area where the screw is. You should be able to apply a little more force with the screwdriver now without fear of straining the board.

Click to view attachment

Now simply replace the Microdrive with your chosen card...

Click to view attachment

Now reassemble in reverse order, cross your fingers and do the software engineering bit (I class partitioning the device etc in that area).

-Andy
Snappy
wow! neat! smile.gif .... you gave me an idea. How about refitting a CF wifi card in that space? Possibly need to trim the CF card as most cards juts out a bit.
BarryW
That part jutting out is the antenna. Wouldn't work too well without that.
iamasmith
QUOTE(Snappy @ Jun 1 2006, 12:54 AM)
wow! neat! smile.gif .... you gave me an idea. How about refitting a CF wifi card in that space? Possibly need to trim the CF card as most cards juts out a bit.
*


There's a lot of discussion about this on other threads... lets no go there again on this thread pls.

-Andy
daniel3000
QUOTE(Snappy @ Jun 1 2006, 02:54 AM)
wow! neat! smile.gif .... you gave me an idea. How about refitting a CF wifi card in that space? Possibly need to trim the CF card as most cards juts out a bit.
*


Indeed a very nice tutorial.
Thanks, Andy!

An I dea I had when reading albertr's instructions of fitting wifi and BT USB modules inside a C1000:

In a 3x00 you could replace the microdrive with a CF card which you removed the housing from first, so it will be much thinner.
This could allow to _additionally_ fit (i.e. stack) the USB modules in the same place as the CF card.

No idea if this would really work, but someone may want to try it.
(Well, don't try it with a dismantled Microdrive please, that certainly won't work ;-)

daniel
iamasmith
QUOTE(daniel3000 @ Jun 1 2006, 08:11 AM)
...

An I dea I had when reading albertr's instructions of fitting wifi and BT USB modules inside a C1000:

In a 3x00 you could replace the microdrive with a CF card which you removed the housing from first, so it will be much thinner.
This could allow to _additionally_ fit (i.e. stack) the USB modules in the same place as the CF card.

No idea if this would really work, but someone may want to try it.
(Well, don't try it with a dismantled Microdrive please, that certainly won't work ;-)

daniel
*


Sorry if this sounds negative but NO, NO, NO, NO NO ! smile.gif

The housing around these storage cards almost certainly provides them with the RF shielding necessary for them to :-

a. Meet FCC/Euro or whatever compliance standards that there are with regard to emmissions.
b. Enable them to function in an environment with background electronic emmisions that are defined by these standards.
c. Meet the thermal characteristics that the manufacturer states in their documentation.

You may well experience glitches or complete meltdown if you try this. (any thoughts on this AlbertR if you are listening ?)

-Andy
Ferret-Simpson
Well the whole Zaurus is RF shielded, so that wouldn't be the problem. But you then wouldn't be able to cut a hole in the Z's RF shielding for the Wifi and Bluetooth signals. So there wouldn't be any point in the end result. Unless you mounted the Aerials externally?
iamasmith
Read it again Ferret, the post is talking about removing the casing from a CF card to make it smaller tongue.gif

Actually there is a point here about the health of a Zaurus with these cards fitted internally. As there is no RF shielding in the area where the card is fitted it might mean that a card that is slightly more noisy than the Microdrive could effect the operation of the Zaurus (note that all bets on CF standards etc are off when you are dealing with these internal slots) - compliance generally takes a consumer unit as a single entity in this respect.

If stability becomes an issue with my card I might find some of that metalicised paper screen stuff to wrap the card in.

-Andy
Ferret-Simpson
Heh, sorry I thought you meant that external influences could affect the unprotected CF card as opposed to the other way round. See? I'm always right in my OWN context! tongue.gif
iamasmith
QUOTE(iamasmith @ Jun 1 2006, 08:39 AM)
Read it again Ferret, the post is talking about removing the casing from a CF card to make it smaller tongue.gif

Actually there is a point here about the health of a Zaurus with these cards fitted internally. As there is no RF shielding in the area where the card is fitted it might mean that a card that is slightly more noisy than the Microdrive could effect the operation of the Zaurus (note that all bets on CF standards etc are off when you are dealing with these internal slots) - compliance generally takes a consumer unit as a single entity in this respect.

If stability becomes an issue with my card I might find some of that metalicised paper screen stuff to wrap the card in.

-Andy
*


Actually yes, the more I think about it the more that this seems logical if you have a card that works in the expansion CF slot and then causes failures when fitted internally.

Look at the pics on the disassembly screen again. Note that the External CF slot has an aluminium RF shield whilst the internal slot has nothing.

If you at some time tried this and gave up because the card caused failures (Seagate 8Gb cards fail) then it may be worth trying this again with a little extra screening in there.. be careful though the cards do need to have some air flow around them (particularly Microdrives).

-Andy
albertr
I think there could be some places found inside C3X00 casing to fit small Wi-FI and BT modules. There's a page in Japanese where they stuff a small BT module inside C3X00. That one, and there's also a good spot next to MD on the other side of the PCB. These locations could not be optimal for RF, but then external antennas could be used. Of course, it's a close fit, so modules needs to be very small, and locations needs to be carefully measured and examined.

On the other hand, C1000 has plenty of space inside that makes it much more easier.
-albertr
iamasmith
One last extra tip, magnetise your screwdriver to hold the little screws.

I popped the top off to replace the 2 final screws that hold the SD card daughter board assembly to the main board. I left them out during testing because they were so darned awkward to remove.

My screwdriver was not magnetised so I picked up one of the screws with a pair of tweezers and as I was moving the screw into place I heard it go ping out of the tweezers and ricochet around the room. Took me 20 mins to find the damned thing sad.gif

Don't use tweezers.

-Andy
daniel3000
QUOTE(iamasmith @ Jun 1 2006, 10:26 AM)
Sorry if this sounds negative but NO, NO, NO, NO NO ! smile.gif

The housing around these storage cards almost certainly provides them with the RF shielding necessary for them to :-

a. Meet FCC/Euro or whatever compliance standards that there are with regard to emmissions.
b. Enable them to function in an environment with background electronic emmisions that are defined by these standards.
c. Meet the thermal characteristics that the manufacturer states in their documentation.

You may well experience glitches or complete meltdown if you try this. (any thoughts on this AlbertR if you are listening ?)

-Andy
*


Well, isn't there the same technology (Flash storage with driver chip) used inside the Zaurus anyway, and that part is not shielded seperately either.

Actually I don't think EMI would be an issue.
But OTOH now that you mention it, I am a bit hesitant to try it, because my data is too valuable to risk it that way. ;-)

I have taken apart an old 8MB CF card, and that one does not have any metal shielding, juse the plastic case around the PCB with the ICs. Have you seen a shielded card? Maybe the newer ultra-fast ones have a shielding?

daniel
iamasmith
QUOTE(daniel3000 @ Jun 6 2006, 12:14 PM)
...
Well, isn't there the same technology (Flash storage with driver chip) used inside the Zaurus anyway, and that part is not shielded seperately either.

Actually I don't think EMI would be an issue.
But OTOH now that you mention it, I am a bit hesitant to try it, because my data is too valuable to risk it that way. ;-)

I have taken apart an old 8MB CF card, and that one does not have any metal shielding, juse the plastic case around the PCB with the ICs. Have you seen a shielded card? Maybe the newer ultra-fast ones have a shielding?

daniel


It is possible that the newer high speed cards are shielded... maybe I'm being over cautious.

-Andy
tinfoil
Well, I undertook this with varying degrees of success. First, I managed to break the copper contact mentioned in the instructions. As I have some spare parts, I thought what the heck, let's see what happens without it. It's just a ground strap, and it looks like there is another on the bottom of the board. And as I thought, it had no negative effects. YMMV, of course.

I replaced it with a Sandisk Ultimate 8GB 266x CF card, thinking it would increase the speed. Alas, no such luck! Disk speed is still bloody slow.

Edit: And by slow I mean buffered reads of ~2-3MB/s. The card tested about 10-15x that outside the machine. What a disappointment.
speculatrix
are you doing raw disk speed testing with FAT or EXT2, or with journalling file system (ext3)? use noatime and relatime on linux file systems too to make things a lot better.
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