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puffy
I needed to take apart and remove the board from a Zaurus C3000 to solder something. There is a copper foil piece .003 inch thick and about 1/4 inch wide soldered to the board and somehow attached to the body next to the three wire battery terminals.
This I just pulled from the body and it slid out, allowing me to remove the board, flip it and solder the stuff I needed to.
Now, idiot me doesn't know how to replace this foil to the body. And lacking a schematic, or pictures that show the foil piece attached I'm kinda screwed.
Anyone either know what I'm talking about, or maybe know of pics or schematics I can use to un-screw up this operation?
Thanks.

Emile
tux
QUOTE(puffy @ Sep 27 2008, 05:28 PM) *
I needed to take apart and remove the board from a Zaurus C3000 to solder something. There is a copper foil piece .003 inch thick and about 1/4 inch wide soldered to the board and somehow attached to the body next to the three wire battery terminals.
This I just pulled from the body and it slid out, allowing me to remove the board, flip it and solder the stuff I needed to.
Now, idiot me doesn't know how to replace this foil to the body. And lacking a schematic, or pictures that show the foil piece attached I'm kinda screwed.
Anyone either know what I'm talking about, or maybe know of pics or schematics I can use to un-screw up this operation?
Thanks.

Emile

cool.gif Try this link:Iamasmiths's photos. There are many posts about this sort of thing but this post shows photos of the 3000 in disassembly with some good explanations. Hope it helps. biggrin.gif
puffy
Thanks Tux.
What I did, is pull out the copper foil from the body rather than desolder it from the board.
utx
You can also try high-res images on my web site in my signature.
kahm
Bugger. Wish I'd seen this last night. I just opened a 3000 last night to swap the CF card. sad.gif Ended up de-soldering the strip...
speculatrix
great pictures on Stanislav's site, thanks!

I note the photo clearly shows what looks like space for additional flash memory device "above" the one fitted, here:
http://www.penguin.cz/~utx/zaurus/pcbtd_dr_t.jpg

and above that are, in theory, pads for a bluetooth module, of the same type that would have been fitted in a 6000WL:
http://www.penguin.cz/~utx/zaurus/pcbtd_mr_t.jpg

compare with this:
http://www.zaurus.org.uk/images/6000_motherboard6.m.jpg
utx
QUOTE(speculatrix @ Nov 12 2008, 12:39 AM) *
I note the photo clearly shows what looks like space for additional flash memory device "above" the one fitted, here:


Yes, you can add yet another 128MB flash. Maybe more, who knows. And PROM can be replaced by NOR Flash.

QUOTE(speculatrix @ Nov 12 2008, 12:39 AM) *
and above that are, in theory, pads for a bluetooth module, of the same type that would have been fitted in a 6000WL:


Yes, it is. The parts around seems to be two pull-down circuits for the old Bluetooth chip dual power. You can solder it only on SL-C1000. On SL-C3x00 there is no space (but you can solder flying wires there). And you need to solder missing quad resistor under the CPU cover.
speculatrix
QUOTE(utx @ Nov 12 2008, 09:25 AM) *
QUOTE(speculatrix @ Nov 12 2008, 12:39 AM) *
and above that are, in theory, pads for a bluetooth module, of the same type that would have been fitted in a 6000WL:


Yes, it is. The parts around seems to be two pull-down circuits for the old Bluetooth chip dual power. You can solder it only on SL-C1000. On SL-C3x00 there is no space (but you can solder flying wires there). And you need to solder missing quad resistor under the CPU cover.


I presume it's simply that the microdrive connector positions the drive to close to the board to allow room? I think elsewhere in forum we discussed taking a CF card's cladding off to make it thin enough to make room for the BT module, and people felt it was a Bad Idea!

(edit) p.s. thanks for helping clarify. I don't think I'll be making the mod, but it's nice to know. And shame on Sharp for ignoring the opportunity to make an SL-C3200B!
utx
QUOTE(speculatrix @ Nov 12 2008, 11:19 PM) *
I presume it's simply that the microdrive connector positions the drive to close to the board to allow room? I think elsewhere in forum we discussed taking a CF card's cladding off to make it thin enough to make room for the BT module, and people felt it was a Bad Idea!


Yes, it is. There is about 0.5mm space both above and below. The space is used for HDD sticky shock protection (see photo of the HDD). If you will use flash CF, you can avoid these tapes. Removing cladding may save another 1mm (but probably even less, on a card I repaired, cladding had less than 0.5mm, and it was glued directly on chips). The module has 1.9mm (plus 0.1mm for soldering iron and very thin insulation, e. g. kapton tape). at least 0.5mm is still missing.

Well, you may try to bend up wires of the connector. It may work, maybe you will break it.

Then you will have a problem with antenna. Designated chip antenna has ~9mm. You have to choose another one with a different footprint => you cannot avoid flying wires. (Well, you may try AHR module, but expect very bad performance having antenna deep inside the device).

If you will use CF type I instead of HDD, you will get another 1.7mm. On the opposite side than you need. sad.gif Well, you may thinking about desoldering the connector and creating any type of cladding (or replacing with a different type of connector, if anybody manufactures it). But remember that it is 50 wires.

Not counting the fact, that one quad resistor is located just under the connector (but I guess this one is not mandatory as it is only safety pull-down).

Summary: I would never recommend the above. Making small daughter board with any modern BT ready-to-use module with internal power circuit, soldering four data wires, ground, power and power switching and placing antenna somewhere looks far simpler.

Note: Still talking about Spitz. For Akita there is no problem to do it.
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