OESF Portables Forum
Everything Else => General Support and Discussion => Zaurus General Forums => Archived Forums => Hardware Mods => Topic started by: speculatrix on November 10, 2005, 09:51:47 am
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I've got an 860 and a 6000. the thing that keeps me hanging onto them both is that the screen on the 6000 is so nice, but the keyboard on the 860 is so useful. Ideally I want to sell them both and buy a 3100.
physically, I reckon you could transfer the screen from the 600 into the 3100 (at least, it seems so from the visible part of the display).
however, is the electrical interface to the display similar or the same?
if this were possible, and a bluetooth module were added to the 3100, it'd be the uber-zaurus!
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the LCD interface is farily standard across all LCD screens, should be a vsync, hsync, and 16 bits of color. the only thing you would have to worry about is getting the timing right but once again its farily standard
if the res is the same it should work but require a bit of hacking but in my opionion the cxx00 series screens are great (in comparison to a 1930, XDA, XDA2, X30) so i dont know if woul be worth the effort
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the LCD interface is farily standard across all LCD screens, should be a vsync, hsync, and 16 bits of color. the only thing you would have to worry about is getting the timing right but once again its farily standard
if the res is the same it should work but require a bit of hacking but in my opionion the cxx00 series screens are great (in comparison to a 1930, XDA, XDA2, X30) so i dont know if woul be worth the effort
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I had always thought that way, even owning a 6000. Until recently, anyway. .3" bigger, sunlit visible. It'd be nice, but hardly a requirement.
But there was always something about the 6000's screen every time I looked at it that just screamed "Nice!". I could never pin down what it was, but then I showed the 6000 to a 3100 owner and he nailed it right away.
The 6000's screen has a *much* wider field of view. Tilt the 3.7" screen a bit and you'll see the colours shift, and you can pick out the silvery bits that seem to stand out so much. The 6000 screen doesn't suffer from either effect - the colours are steady and reproduction is more consistent across the spectrum. It really is that much nicer than the 3.7" one.
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If you do this PLEASE document it, photgraph the steps, etc.
A screen transplant would make a clamshell much more interesting to me.
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Hello
Thanks to the donated 6000, I'm ready to proceed :-)
I just need a clamshell to try that. Can someone sell me a cheap clamshell? Anything (even a 700) will be fine.
Ideally, I would also need a picture of the existing screen and its connector.
Here's a pdf for the 6000 screen:
http://www.ourselec.com/5agent/LED/LS040V7...96%87030425.pdf (http://www.ourselec.com/5agent/LED/LS040V7DD01/%E4%B8%8B%E8%BD%BD%E6%96%87%E6%A1%A3/LS040V7DD01%E6%8A%80%E8%A1%93%E8%B3%87%E6%96%99%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87030425.pdf)
It seems hardware compatible with the 3.7" screen which IMHO is a LS037V7DD03. I can't however find its specsheet which I need to make sure.
Guylhem
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if it was me i would just go ahead and do it but that tends to get things broken , ill see if i can get you a pic of the connector and cable for refrence from my c3k, cant get you the part number on the LCd as i damadged the top half of my case and putting it back together is a B****
when you maen hardware compatible does that include the pinout on the connector?
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Hello
IMHO the pinout *is* compatible. I'd need some pics of the top half of the case to see if the 6000 screen will fit. There's black plastic to pad the screen in the horizontal direction, but vertically I think it will be necessary to cut into the plastic - unless you have ~4mm of unused screen space between the plastic and the displayed screen: 60.5 x 80.6 for the 6000 vs 56.2 x 74.9 for the clamshell.
Anyway, I'm willing to risk a zaurus and a screen while doing the surgery, but I would appreciate if someone could help me get a clamshell for that purpose (a used c700-c750-c760-c860 would be fine, but I'd also be ready to risk new c3100).
Anybody here living in Japan willing to play the middleman? I was in touch with directfromjapan.net but their last email dates from nov 3 - no news since. I won't be able to recommand their services :-)
PS: here are some specs. The 6000 screen looks better not only because it's transreflective : it is also brighter.
S037V7DD03 Specification
· Active area(H×V)： 56.2× 74.9 mm
· Outline dimensions(H×V×D)： 65.0×90.0 ×4.2mm
· Dot format： 480×RGB×640
· Dot size(H×V)： 0.117×0.117mm
·color： 262K
·Contrast： 100:1
·Luminance： 80 cd/m2
·View angle： 40°40°40°
·Input signal： TTL 3×6bit RGB（51P）
· Voltage： Multi-voltageV
·Back light： LED
·Respond time(tr+td)： 30+50ms
·Power consumption： 0.49(LED)W
·Operation temperature： -10~60 ℃
·Storage temperature： -20~70℃
·Weight： 48g
LS040V7DD01 Specification
· Active area(H×V)： 60.5× 80.6 mm
· Outline dimensions(H×V×D)： 69.3×96.0 ×4.2mm
· Dot format： 480×RGB×640
· Dot size(H×V)： 0.042×0.126mm
·color： 262K
·Contrast： 100:1
·Luminance： 70 cd/m2
·View angle： 40°40°40°
·Input signal： TTL 3×6bit RGB（51P）
· Voltage： Multi-voltageV
·Back light： LED
·Respond time(tr+td)： 30+50ms
·Power consumption： 0.48(LED)W
·Operation temperature： -10~60 ℃
·Storage temperature： -20~70℃
·Weight： 57g
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looks good, specs dont tell you anything we dont already know, i dont think you would blow anything up so it probley alright to give it a go
you could give pricejapan.com a go they ship anywhere in the world and are quite cheap
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Hello
It's too expansive for a machine I'm getting for test purposes (ie fixing it until it'll be broken). A 3100 costs less than 55 000 Yens, ie less than 390 Euro there. Either I can find someone who can get me one at that japanese street price or I won't do it. A 1000 is less than 35 000 ie less than 250 Euro there, and someone tried to sell me a a used 860 for 200 Euro (!!) Yeah, right; 50 euros more to get a brand new machine with a warranty and USB hosts (I have a very small usb wifi module I want to try to craft into a SL-C3/1xxx) !!!!
That's not fair. I'm spending time and hardware to do helpfuls things (like a distribution, documenting hardware mods), even giving away parts and doing free mods for friends, while people are trying to make a profit on me ??
I'm sorry but this is not the way to go.
Hey if we follow that mentality, then what don't I charge for what do?
Sorry but it's a big no no.
Guylhem
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Hello
It's too expansive for a machine I'm getting for test purposes (ie fixing it until it'll be broken). A 3100 costs less than 55 000 Yens, ie less than 390 Euro there. Either I can find someone who can get me one at that japanese street price or I won't do it. A 1000 is less than 35 000 ie less than 250 Euro there, and someone tried to sell me a a used 860 for 200 Euro (!!) Yeah, right; 50 euros more to get a brand new machine with a warranty and USB hosts (I have a very small usb wifi module I want to try to craft into a SL-C3/1xxx) !!!!
That's not fair. I'm spending time and hardware to do helpfuls things (like a distribution, documenting hardware mods), even giving away parts and doing free mods for friends, while people are trying to make a profit on me ??
I'm sorry but this is not the way to go.
Hey if we follow that mentality, then what don't I charge for what do?
Sorry but it's a big no no.
Guylhem
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In this matter I have to agree with you completely. Of course my position on this matter is pretty well known, but I feel any developer has the express right to charge for his efforts. The market may not support those charges just because they exist (but It can at times) but the developer definitely has the right.
Personally I always donate/pay for any Z software/hardware that I use and benefits me, (and some that haven't). If you or ANYONE manages to pull of this upgrade I'd be willing to drop $200 usd to have this upgrade done for me! (That's assuming I provided the C3100 and the person doing the work supplies the screen). Otherwise I'd be willing to pay $100 usd or so if I were to provide all needed parts myself.
This particular upgrade would merge all my major likes of the 6000 and the C3100 into one machine. That is worth a lot to me.
But anyway I wouldn't get too upset Guyhelm over the guy trying to make a profit off of you while your donating research etc. to the community. There will ALWAYS be someone trying to make a buck off of even the best of causes.
Good luck on this project, I personally will be watching it like a hawk!
-NeuroShock
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Hello
I've been negociating a fairer price for a clamshell. Will keep you guys informed of the operation.
Regarding your lcd connector, I have the black plastic you need - please tell me where I can send it. I extracted it from my damaged lcd connecotr (mine has the white part damaged). If it's not enough, I'm trying to purchase full connectors - I'll give you one.
PS: I've also sent by email reference for the leds see-through - if you can't get them I will do that for you.
Guylhem
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Another forum post had me re-examining my 6k and 1k/3k screens.
Because of the way LCD screens are made, they have optimum viewing angles. The 6k screen appears to be optimized for portrait use, with the widest viewing angle available across the shortest dimension of the screen (left - right).
Well, the 3.7" screens are optimized the same way - across the short side of the screen, which is up-down in the most used clamshell mode. Once you put them in the same orientation, the screens have nearly identical optical characteristics and viewing angles. In fact, the 3.7" is retains better contrast than the 4" at certain extreme angles, not that it matters that much.
I believe that Sharp should have optimized the 3.7" screen for landscape mode on the clamshells. This is probably where most of the dissatisfaction with them comes from.
As for brightness, the 3.7" screens appear brighter to me, not the 4". This is comparing a 1 yr old 3k/6mo old 1k to a ~2yr old 6k so it may just be an issue with the aging backlight.
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Regarding adding internal wifi, anyone has a high scan of the 3100 internals (around 600 dpi) ?
I think I could have a solution. I'd like to see some pics first however to trace lines. I would also need a free GPIO.
Regarding the screen transplant, I'll now try to get a 3100 at a decent price. My attempts to get used unts failed. So if you are curious, live in Japan and feel like helping me damage a brand new 3100, please email me.
I'd like to pay the device I may destruct + shipping at the jp street price.
G
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Regarding adding internal wifi, anyone has a high scan of the 3100 internals (around 600 dpi) ?
I think I could have a solution. I'd like to see some pics first however to trace lines. I would also need a free GPIO.
Regarding the screen transplant, I'll now try to get a 3100 at a decent price. My attempts to get used unts failed. So if you are curious, live in Japan and feel like helping me damage a brand new 3100, please email me.
I'd like to pay the device I may destruct + shipping at the jp street price.
G
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If I wasn't currently unemployed, I'd be contributing to your work, Guyhelm. I use your kernel. Good luck..
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Donations to paypal@externe.net are welcome - anything is welcome, if only to proof commitment to the work being done. Because honnestly, it doesn't cover costs - far from it.
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Another idea is to scan ebay for broken Z's.
I bought a sl-5500 for $25 bucks.
Typically what happens is "people forget that they have opposable thumbs", drop the Z, scren goes into "you're really ugly, I'm going to commit hari-kari" mode, and viola a perfectly functional Z that you can't read. Still usually fully functional(poweron logon USB ...)
Get a clamshell that has had an unenlightened owner and you have a cheap machine for hardware hacking.
Good luck
Bill
ps- now to figure out how to get dual CF and a USB host into my 5500...
pps- anyone thought of hacking a sandisk wifi/cf into a gprsmodem/microdrive combo?
Donations to paypal@externe.net are welcome - anything is welcome, if only to proof commitment to the work being done. Because honnestly, it doesn't cover costs - far from it.
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...[snip]...
available across the shortest dimension of the screen (left - right).
Well, the 3.7" screens are optimized the same way - across the short side of the screen,
...[snip]...
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- Ding!! I noticed some time ago that viewing the C1K screen in "portrait" was significantly better than landscape. It's so dramatic that I'll sometimes look at it from the right of center, to "simulate" portrait, when the lighting conditions aren't that great, and I'm too lazy to bump the brightness. (grin) Bumping the brightness doesn't help, anyway ... the thing that's missing is contrast ... and it's just better from the "portrait" viewing angle. (shrug)
- I've chalked it up to a limitation of LCD screens. They all probably have some optimal viewing angle, and since the landscape format is vastly less common than the portrait, and these screens are probably used in a wide variety of products, it stands to reason the optimal orientation is portrait. Annoying, but understandable. (drool)
- Dasswuttitink, ittiz...
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Sorry for being clueless, but how would a 4inch screen fit into a 3.7inch bezel. Even if you chopped some of the frame away, would there be a large enough area?
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Sorry for being clueless, but how would a 4inch screen fit into a 3.7inch bezel. Even if you chopped some of the frame away, would there be a large enough area?
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When I hold my 6000 next to my 860, then it would seem there is enough space, but I don't know how much hardware there is hidden behind the frame - I would have to take them both apart and see whether it is possible!
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Sorry for being clueless, but how would a 4inch screen fit into a 3.7inch bezel. Even if you chopped some of the frame away, would there be a large enough area?
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When I hold my 6000 next to my 860, then it would seem there is enough space, but I don't know how much hardware there is hidden behind the frame - I would have to take them both apart and see whether it is possible!
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Not too much.
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