OESF Portables Forum
Everything Else => Sharp Zaurus => Model Specific Forums => Distros, Development, and Model Specific Forums => Archived Forums => Cxx0 Hardware => Topic started by: vanstrien on August 19, 2004, 02:51:58 pm
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I saw the CE-RH1 remote and was wondering if anyone has purchased one? Worth recommending?
http://www.trisoft.de/cerh1.htm (http://www.trisoft.de/cerh1.htm)
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Yes, I have one. Works with Sharp's Music Player and XMMS under pdaxrom.
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Its great! I decided to order one and I've very happy I did. I listen to music on my Z every morning and afternoon, and this remote had proved very handy.
It has a volume control, forward and back, stop/play/pause, and a hold to prevent pushing keys. No I don't have to get out my Z when the train is crowded.
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Hi @ all.
I search a Player (OGG,MP3) it's run with this remote control. I have Zaurus C860, OZ 3.5.1 and Opie.
Is there such a thing ?
Thanks.
Regards Obelix
PS: Sorry, my english
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I don't think there is one (at the moment ;-)) for OZ.
The unit seems to create keypresses which could be handled by whichever app you choose. The question is whether the keypresses are generated by a physical circuit (in which case it should work fine - this is the way I'm leaning atm), or by some software which monitors the headset port and generates them (this would be pretty cool, but I don't think it's the case).
Actually for all I know opie-mediaplayer2 may have had this functionality added, but as I don't have a headset I can't tell you.
Si
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Will this work with a 5x00?
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The remote uses an extra pin on the plug and decoding hardware. The 5x00's have neither, unfortunately.
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Thanks for your answer. I test it, when I have my SD Cart.
Obelix
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The remote is an ergonomics nightmare, but it works fine.
Although expensive, it allows you to keep the (more expensive) Z in a protective pocket/case/bag, which is the main reason I got it.
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Anyone know what the differences are between the CE-RH1 and CE-RH2? Some shop staff were very reluctant to sell me the former today for my 860 - they said some of the functions didn't work, but it sems ok to me. A flyer for the sl-c3000 mentioned a ce-rh2 remote but it is not available for a couple of weeks. The picture looked pretty much the same.
James
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Anyone know what the differences are between the CE-RH1 and CE-RH2? Some shop staff were very reluctant to sell me the former today for my 860 - they said some of the functions didn't work, but it sems ok to me. A flyer for the sl-c3000 mentioned a ce-rh2 remote but it is not available for a couple of weeks. The picture looked pretty much the same.
James
I picked up a CE-RH1 at Sofmap last week, and it seems to work fine in my 860. Well worth the 1800 yen used It was listed as an accessory for the MI series of zaurus.
I also grabbed a camera card that they listed as a Zaurus CE(?) series accessory. It worked just fine as well. (Although I haven't bothered to check if they actually made more than one model number of the camera.)
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Will this work with the default media player on Cacko on a SL-C860 (or are there other media players available for the rom that are suggested instead)?
I assume with this, one can plug a different pair of headphones into it? I'm not a fan of earbuds, instead have a pair of sony small headphones that wrap around your ear, much more comfortable.
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Actually, even better, anybody got a wiring diagram for one of these? It is bloody expensive (especially if I imported one to AU) and it doesn't seem to be all that well designed. Alternatively, any cheaper versions that achieve the same thing?
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Nyar,
I use mine with Cacko and my 860. It works a treat. I tried it on my 5500 when I first got it but I can't remember the outcome.
The earbuds themselves aren't all that impressive, but they are ok. They plug into the remove and are on a short wire, so I imagine you could replace them with similar Sony/etc earbyds for remotes (so you don't have all the extra cable.)
I'm not sure why ev1l said they are an ergonomics nightmare, because the remove isn't all that different from what I've seen on other devices. Again, I'm pretty happy that my Z is so great.
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This site has the schematic for the remote on it: CE-RH1 Joypad (http://www.areanine.gr.jp/~nyano/cerh1pad.html). The page is in japanese, but the schematic is still perfectly understandable.
Be warned, make sure you get GND and KEY on the headphone jack the right way around! I didn't the first time, because I assumed GND was the sleeve when it wasn't. If you get weird clicking noises in your headphones when you press buttons it's because you got these mixed up.
Also, take note of how much resistance your switches have. Mine were about 50ohms, which ended up ok except for the Play button! Since that switch only has 120ohms connected to it the 50 extra knocked it way out and the zaurus wouldn't recognise it. So lower the value of that one resistor accordingly.
Oh, and you *need* a hold switch
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@pelrun: Does this mean you've made your own? I have all the components but am lacking something small enough to put everything in (switches are a bit of an issue too - they tend to be rather bulky). I'd be interested to know what you used (assuming you did make one).
Si
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I was lucky with the switches; they are small boardmount illuminated switches about 0.3" square. Got the very last six of them in my local electronics store.
The casing was a small cheapo flashlight that came with a retractable dogleash thing my sister bought for a couple of bucks. It was rectangular, and the battery compartment (which normally houses 2 AAA cells) was juuuust large enough to cram a piece of stripboard with the six switches and all the resistors mounted on it.
It was also bright red, but I can't be fussy when I'm channelling MacGyver
Everything was mounted above the board - only the LED wires and the switch grounds were actually soldered through the holes. Messy, but it wouldn't have fit any other way.
I'm not sure I could make the thing any smaller, but it's still too big and gawky (and bright red) to be in-line with the headphone lead. I have it on it's own lead, with a jack down at the Z end to plug the headphones into.
Right now I'm considering a different approach to get the size down - I'm going to use the stripboard directly, with either some conductive rubber buttons pulled from an old tv remote to make the connections between tracks, or a thin shim and some plasticised foil (*cough*potato chip packet*cough*) for a really low-profile solution. That would probably come out very tiny indeed.
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I'm looking at the SL6000, and it seems to have three poles as well as ground when I look into the socket. Does anyone know if there will be something like this for the SL6000?
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I'm not sure why ev1l said they are an ergonomics nightmare, because the remove isn't all that different from what I've seen on other devices. Again, I'm pretty happy that my Z is so great.
Both the wire and the jack on the remote should be on the same side (the underside), but they aren't. If you are using a decent pair of cans with a thicker wire, you'll have that wire sticking out of your pockets, and unclipping the remote all the time.
Annother example of bad design is the clip and button placement. The stop button is exactly where you'd put your finger when undoing the clip, so you usually end up pressing it when putting on/removing the remote.