1
Angstrom & OpenZaurus / Oz 3.5.4 Not Blanking Lcd
« on: October 17, 2006, 01:09:46 pm »
Issue has been entered as bug #1509. Thanks for the link to the bugtracker.
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2
Angstrom & OpenZaurus / Oz 3.5.4 Not Blanking Lcd
« on: October 16, 2006, 06:12:55 pm »
Certainly... I did a complete flash of OZ 3.5.4 using the 64/0 boot. For test purposes, my configuration under Light & Power (both battery and AC) is dim after 10, light off after 20, and suspend after 30, and I have checked the box to deactivate the LCD rather than suspend.
What I am repeatedly seeing happen is that the light will dim after 10 seconds, go off after 30 seconds, and the LCD never turns off and the Z never suspends. Testing, this appears to be the same sequence regardless of if the "Deactivate LCD" box is checked or not. I have also set the timeouts at higher numbers (up to 120/300/300) and again see the same type of results.
It's been a couple years since I played with OZ/Opie, however it seems to me there was a similar issue under 3.5.2 which was caused by an incorrect APM setting? I can't seem to find a reference to it here on the board, so I really can't say for sure, but I think I'll check through the backups I have from 3.5.2 and see if I can find any changes I may have made.
What I am repeatedly seeing happen is that the light will dim after 10 seconds, go off after 30 seconds, and the LCD never turns off and the Z never suspends. Testing, this appears to be the same sequence regardless of if the "Deactivate LCD" box is checked or not. I have also set the timeouts at higher numbers (up to 120/300/300) and again see the same type of results.
It's been a couple years since I played with OZ/Opie, however it seems to me there was a similar issue under 3.5.2 which was caused by an incorrect APM setting? I can't seem to find a reference to it here on the board, so I really can't say for sure, but I think I'll check through the backups I have from 3.5.2 and see if I can find any changes I may have made.
3
Angstrom & OpenZaurus / Oz 3.5.4 Not Blanking Lcd
« on: October 16, 2006, 12:40:01 pm »
Is there any word on a work-around for the "Deactivate LCD" option in light&power settings? I'm running an SL5500 and cannot seem to find any follow-up on this issue (it was mentioned by someone on openzaurus.org on the page announcing the initial release of 3.5.4).
4
General Discussion / Wifi Associates But Does Not Get Dhcp
« on: December 09, 2005, 06:14:22 pm »
Hmm you may be correct... The connection speed is 2Mb, and when I manually assign an IP address, I am still unable to ping the AP. I tried manually adding the s: to my WEP key in /etc/network/interfaces, but this has not made any difference. What is the s: supposed to do anyway? Are there any other such options I could try that might affect the encryption?
5
General Discussion / Wifi Associates But Does Not Get Dhcp
« on: December 07, 2005, 01:07:47 pm »
We've been testing different AP's here in the lab, so I brought my Zaurus in to help gather data. Over the last few days we have had a Netgear WGR614 v.6 on the bench which is causing me headaches. Every wireless card we have tested works with this AP except for my Zaurus. Even my linux laptop is connecting without problems. On my Zaurus, iwconfig shows that the card is associated and has a strong signal, but when udhcpc kicks in, it times out and never gets an IP address.
We have been using identical SSID's and wep keys when setting up each AP (verified by the fact that I do not change any settings when I plug my wifi card into the laptop). I'm not having problems connecting to any other AP's, so I was hoping someone might be able to tell me if there's something different I need to do to try and get a connection here?
Hardware...
Netgear WGR614 v.6 access point
Zaurus SL-5500 running OZ GPE 3.5.3
D-Link DCF-660W
We have been using identical SSID's and wep keys when setting up each AP (verified by the fact that I do not change any settings when I plug my wifi card into the laptop). I'm not having problems connecting to any other AP's, so I was hoping someone might be able to tell me if there's something different I need to do to try and get a connection here?
Hardware...
Netgear WGR614 v.6 access point
Zaurus SL-5500 running OZ GPE 3.5.3
D-Link DCF-660W
6
5x00 Hardware / External Battery Pack With Sl-5500?
« on: October 28, 2005, 11:19:23 am »
Just the + and - are fine. The third terminal tells the Z that a battery is installed. You probably won't even have a wire for that on any battery packs you buy.
7
Angstrom & OpenZaurus / Email Application For Gpe
« on: October 25, 2005, 07:04:13 pm »
Anyone else notice that Minimo doesn't allow you to back up to previous pages?
8
5x00 Hardware / External Battery Pack With Sl-5500?
« on: October 25, 2005, 01:59:30 pm »Quote
That's what diodes R 4. Put a diode on the + of each battery in the parallel circuit and there can be no cross chargingThe problem with diodes is that they also drop the voltage slightly. Most of the lithium packs I looked at contained a charging circuit in them which monitors the state of the battery. This should also (probably?) protect the battery from problems with the other packs.
9
Hardware Mods / The Next Step In Customizing
« on: October 25, 2005, 12:20:15 pm »
After a year of using my Z with rubber-bands holding on the lithium battery packs, I'm getting really tired of fighting it. Ever since I did the battery mod, I've been wanting to mould a new back to cover them up since it's really hard to slip in and out of my pockets now. I decided to write up a how-to guide as I work on this process. If anyone has suggestions along the way, feel free to jump in.
So now it's time to get started. (This is the part where I really wish I had a digital camera, but I'll see if I can borrow one.) Last weekend I started shopping. I needed something that was the right size and shape, with smooth rounded corners. Primarily I wanted something that was the right width, and as long or longer than the body of the Z. What I found were small transparent plastic cases for holding screws or craft pieces. These are sold in all different sizes and shapes. I actually found one that was the perfect size in the fishing lures.
Initially, I was going to just use a dremmel to cut up the case and use it as it is. But why should I do anything the easy way? Instead I decided to try my hand at vacuum moulding. There's a lot of info about this online, and the concept is really simple. Make a negative, drill holes through it, and connect the holes to a vacuum line. Clamp a piece of plastic over the top, stick it in the oven, and when the plastic starts to sag, turn on the vacuum to fill your mould.
Last night I found a box for a power supply, lined the bottom and sides with a single piece of aluminum foil, and mixed up a batch of plaster. The plaster was left somewhat thick, and poured into the box to more than an inch deep. Then I took my plastic case, covered it with vaseline, and pressed it into the plaster. You will want to push it in at an angle to try and prevent air bubbles from being trapped underneath. Get as many out as you can, but any remaning will be filled later. You will want to press your plastic case in at least 3/4" deep. Shake and rock it to get the plaster to settle right up against the sides. You'll need to work fast, as the plaster will start setting up in about 5 minutes. Note that the plaster will get very warm when it starts to cure!
Once everything is in place, let the plaster sit for at least an hour or two. It will still be damp, but you want it solid before moving it. Now you should be able to gently rock your plastic case and have it pop right out of the plaster. Let the mould sit overnight, then pull it out of the box (either by turning the box over and gently letting the mould drop out, or by cutting the box off). If you packed the aluminum foil nice and tight against the inside of the box, it should come cleanly off of the plaster.
Now look over what you have. There may be some air pockets or other defects to fill in. Mix up some more plaster and fill in the holes until you have a clean mould. At this point you will need to let the plaster sit for a few days to dry out, but the mould is nearly complete.
What's next: After drying, the top surface will need to be sanded flat and holes drilled through the mould for the vacuum.
So now it's time to get started. (This is the part where I really wish I had a digital camera, but I'll see if I can borrow one.) Last weekend I started shopping. I needed something that was the right size and shape, with smooth rounded corners. Primarily I wanted something that was the right width, and as long or longer than the body of the Z. What I found were small transparent plastic cases for holding screws or craft pieces. These are sold in all different sizes and shapes. I actually found one that was the perfect size in the fishing lures.
Initially, I was going to just use a dremmel to cut up the case and use it as it is. But why should I do anything the easy way? Instead I decided to try my hand at vacuum moulding. There's a lot of info about this online, and the concept is really simple. Make a negative, drill holes through it, and connect the holes to a vacuum line. Clamp a piece of plastic over the top, stick it in the oven, and when the plastic starts to sag, turn on the vacuum to fill your mould.
Last night I found a box for a power supply, lined the bottom and sides with a single piece of aluminum foil, and mixed up a batch of plaster. The plaster was left somewhat thick, and poured into the box to more than an inch deep. Then I took my plastic case, covered it with vaseline, and pressed it into the plaster. You will want to push it in at an angle to try and prevent air bubbles from being trapped underneath. Get as many out as you can, but any remaning will be filled later. You will want to press your plastic case in at least 3/4" deep. Shake and rock it to get the plaster to settle right up against the sides. You'll need to work fast, as the plaster will start setting up in about 5 minutes. Note that the plaster will get very warm when it starts to cure!
Once everything is in place, let the plaster sit for at least an hour or two. It will still be damp, but you want it solid before moving it. Now you should be able to gently rock your plastic case and have it pop right out of the plaster. Let the mould sit overnight, then pull it out of the box (either by turning the box over and gently letting the mould drop out, or by cutting the box off). If you packed the aluminum foil nice and tight against the inside of the box, it should come cleanly off of the plaster.
Now look over what you have. There may be some air pockets or other defects to fill in. Mix up some more plaster and fill in the holes until you have a clean mould. At this point you will need to let the plaster sit for a few days to dry out, but the mould is nearly complete.
What's next: After drying, the top surface will need to be sanded flat and holes drilled through the mould for the vacuum.
10
5x00 Hardware / External Battery Pack With Sl-5500?
« on: October 25, 2005, 11:44:03 am »
The thread is here if you want to look through it. If you want to use a completely external battery pack (plugged into the AC jack), you will need something that puts out 5-6 volts DC. However if you want to wire up in parallel with the internal battery, you MUST choose a lithium battery pack which is 3.7V and has it's own charging regulator built in. The advantage of this method is that the normal AC charger will charge both batteries at the same time (obviously requiring longer charging times), and the on-screen battery monitor will accurately show the time remaining for the combination of batteries (if you use an external battery pack, the battery monitor cannot tell how much charge is left in it).
I started that thread just over a year ago, and have been using two lithium battery packs on my Z for the entire time. There has been no problems with the charging circuits and I still get quite a bit of life out of them.
I started that thread just over a year ago, and have been using two lithium battery packs on my Z for the entire time. There has been no problems with the charging circuits and I still get quite a bit of life out of them.
11
Angstrom & OpenZaurus / Multiple Wireless Ap's
« on: October 20, 2005, 12:37:41 am »
Looks like I found my problem with not dropping the old SSID when roaming. I had been making some changes in /etc/pcmcia/network and added code to support udhcpc. So udhcpc ended up getting called a second time, and when I removed the wifi card, that second instance was locking out changes in wlan0. Seems to be working fine for me now, so on an unmodified install there should be no problems.
Note it does not rescan when the wifi signal is lost, but the script above will correctly search for configured AP's every time the wireless card is inserted, without having to reboot.
Note it does not rescan when the wifi signal is lost, but the script above will correctly search for configured AP's every time the wireless card is inserted, without having to reboot.
12
Angstrom & OpenZaurus / Multiple Wireless Ap's
« on: October 18, 2005, 05:55:50 pm »
I wanted to update this with my results in case anyone else wants to do something similar. This is not complete yet, but it is somewhat functional with known AP's. I currently have to reboot when I change AP's because iwconfig is not automatically releasing the previously-found connection, but I hope to fix that in time. Also be aware that you will of course not be able to use the GUI to configure your wireless network connection after making these changes.
OK on to the good stuff. The first file to modify is /etc/network/interface. You will need to comment out or remove the section that defines wlan0. Replace it with code similar to this:
The next step is to create the script findwifi.sh. This should be placed in /etc/network/.
I still need to get the script to drop the old ssid so it can cleanly search for a new AP whenever you insert your wifi card. Also I want to use "iwfind wlan0 scanning" to attempt to locate an open wifi if one of the primary defined AP's are not detected. And finally, I would like to find a way to re-run this script any time the connection is lost so that wireless connectivity can be seamlessly maintained when roaming. (If anyone has suggestions on detecting when wifi is lost, let me know?)
OK on to the good stuff. The first file to modify is /etc/network/interface. You will need to comment out or remove the section that defines wlan0. Replace it with code similar to this:
Code: [Select]
mapping wlan0
script /etc/network/findwifi.sh
map home,*,*,00:11:22:33:44:55 home
map work,*,*,AA:BB:CC:DD:EE:FF work
map any,*,*,* any
iface home inet dhcp
wireless_mode managed
wireless_essid home_ssid
wireless_key off
wireless_channel 11
iface work inet dhcp
wireless_mode managed
wireless_essid work
wireless_key open key 0000-0000-0000-0000-0000-0000-00 [1] key [1]
wireless_channel 6
iface any inet dhcp
wireless_essid any
wireless_mode managedNote that on the 'map' lines you will want to put in the MAC address of your AP's. You can find this from the command line with iwconfig. If you do not have a connection to your AP, type in "iwconfig wlan0 essid your_ssid_here". Once you have a current connection to your AP, type "iwconfig wlan0", and look for the line with the text "Access Point:". The text after this is your MAC address.The next step is to create the script findwifi.sh. This should be placed in /etc/network/.
Code: [Select]
#!/bin/sh
iface="$1"
ifconfig $iface up
cat /etc/network/interfaces | grep "map " | while read x INFO NAME
do
SSID=`echo $INFO | cut -d, -f1`
if [ "$SSID" = "*" ]; then SSID=any; fi
MAC=`echo $INFO | cut -d, -f4`
iwconfig $iface essid $SSID 2>/dev/null
sleep 1
NEWMAC=`iwconfig wlan0 2>/dev/null | grep "Access Point" | sed -n -e 's/.*Point: /\1/p'`
if [ $NEWMAC = $MAC ]; then
echo $NAME
exit 0
fi
doneRemember to chmod 755 then file after you create it. This script tries out each SSID identified in the interfaces file, in order, and returns the name of the first match. If you want to manually run this file, include the interface name on the command line like such: ./findwifi.sh wlan0I still need to get the script to drop the old ssid so it can cleanly search for a new AP whenever you insert your wifi card. Also I want to use "iwfind wlan0 scanning" to attempt to locate an open wifi if one of the primary defined AP's are not detected. And finally, I would like to find a way to re-run this script any time the connection is lost so that wireless connectivity can be seamlessly maintained when roaming. (If anyone has suggestions on detecting when wifi is lost, let me know?)
13
Angstrom & OpenZaurus / Looking For Feeds
« on: October 18, 2005, 03:49:38 pm »
I don't think the screen-blanking is from the unit suspending, because my wifi stays active and I am able to continue using my ssh connection to the zaurus, or open a new session.
I tried installing BL again with -V9. Looks like to feed packages are arch=arm, and this one here is arch=armv5te. Probably explains why ipkg refuses to install it.
I tried installing BL again with -V9. Looks like to feed packages are arch=arm, and this one here is arch=armv5te. Probably explains why ipkg refuses to install it.
14
Angstrom & OpenZaurus / Looking For Feeds
« on: October 17, 2005, 02:06:22 pm »
Another note to make the ipaq-sleep discussion more interesting. I killed all instances of ipaq-sleep, yet after 10 minutes the screen still blanked. Obviously ipaq-sleep is not being used at all, so what IS actually controlling the screen blanking?
15
Angstrom & OpenZaurus / Looking For Feeds
« on: October 17, 2005, 01:50:18 pm »
I downloaded the BL ipk, but when I told it to install that file, ipkg decided it knew better and instead installed http://ewi546.ewi.utwente.nl/sfeed/bl_0.0c...0924-r0_arm.ipk.
Unfortunately this one gives me the error "Unable to open /dev/touchscreen/0". Under /dev/ I have 'ts' and 'sharp_ts'. I made the directory 'touchscreen' and linked 0 to sharp_ts, but now I get the error "Unable to read backlight: Invalid argument". Guessing this just ain't gonna work...
I'm hoping to do the 2-level powersaver like Opie has... dim the screen after X seconds, turn the screen off (but do not suspend) after Y seconds. Even changing the default screen-blanking interval from the default 10 minutes down to 3 minutes would be helpful, but as I said, ipaq-sleep appears to be completely ignoring the settings in /etc/ipaq-sleep.conf.
By the way, yes I am running on an SL5500. Used to have a sig line here, wonder what happened to it?
I tried gpe-mini-browser, but it wouldn't even display Google properly. Where is the OE feed at? I can't find the link off the homepage anymore.
Also tried sylpheed. It has all kinds of problems displaying on my 240x320 screen. I can't even see most of the options and had to manually change accountrc.
Tried gpe-aerial. It couldn't find any of the numerous wap's in my building, including the one I'm currently connected to. Also crashed when I was trying to look at different options. The reason I wanted wellenreiter is because I also use roadmap and these programs will talk to each other.
Unfortunately this one gives me the error "Unable to open /dev/touchscreen/0". Under /dev/ I have 'ts' and 'sharp_ts'. I made the directory 'touchscreen' and linked 0 to sharp_ts, but now I get the error "Unable to read backlight: Invalid argument". Guessing this just ain't gonna work...
I'm hoping to do the 2-level powersaver like Opie has... dim the screen after X seconds, turn the screen off (but do not suspend) after Y seconds. Even changing the default screen-blanking interval from the default 10 minutes down to 3 minutes would be helpful, but as I said, ipaq-sleep appears to be completely ignoring the settings in /etc/ipaq-sleep.conf.
By the way, yes I am running on an SL5500. Used to have a sig line here, wonder what happened to it?
I tried gpe-mini-browser, but it wouldn't even display Google properly. Where is the OE feed at? I can't find the link off the homepage anymore.
Also tried sylpheed. It has all kinds of problems displaying on my 240x320 screen. I can't even see most of the options and had to manually change accountrc.
Tried gpe-aerial. It couldn't find any of the numerous wap's in my building, including the one I'm currently connected to. Also crashed when I was trying to look at different options. The reason I wanted wellenreiter is because I also use roadmap and these programs will talk to each other.