White Screen On C1000 (fixed)

[Snappy]

ok, I've just joined the exclusive club of white screen Zaurii!!!!

For some reason, I left the device in tablet mode and stuffed it into the bag.
When I used it later, the screen kept flashing ....
I should have known when the hinge felt loose as well ...

Now when I power up, I just get a white screen ...

Any idea??

See below for fix.
https://www.oesf.org/forums/index.php?showt...ndpost&p=155356

[Snappy]

ok, here's more info on my little incident ...

It's actually very strange, 'cos I almost never believe in screen protectors, but yesterday I was out with my family hunting for a screen protector and shortly after I applied the screen protector last night ... the screen flickered feverishly and ... went white! LOL

Ironic isn't it?

I got it last June so I'm shipping it back to Japan for repair ... or whatever they can do ... who knows if they don't have parts, they might just refund me or send me a higher end stock of the Zaurus! lol ... ok ok, I'm just in shock and trying consoling myself ...

(This post is partially recycled from a PM with Antikx 8D)

[Capn_Fish]

Perhaps the LCD connector is loose. Putting on the screen protector may have jarred it just enough to make the screen white.

[Snappy]

Perhaps the LCD connector is loose. Putting on the screen protector may have jarred it just enough to make the screen white.
[div align=\"right\"][a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=154305\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a][/div]

That's possible as well. At least the power line is not broken ... that much I am sure.
Maybe a check is at hand .... more exciting times ahead ...

ONE whole day without my z ... ok, still alive!

[Snappy]

Solution: Replace T-shaped curly LCD ribbon shipped from conics.net

Ripped from http://www.tyrannozaurus.com/?q=node/407

Submitted by Snappy on Thu, 2007-03-01 00:38.

The LCD ribbon cable arrived today and after a 5~7mins replacement surgery, my c1000 is back in business! Cool

Background: The c1000's LCD screen just turned white after flashing furiously one day. An autopsy revealed that the ribbon cable had a micro-fracture. Contacted Brett from Conics and confirmed the right parts via photo in email. Each ribbon is at a very reasonable 1500yen (US$12.56) with EMS shipping at 1500yen as well. Not taking chances, I got 2 ribbons + shipping coming up to 4500yen (US$37.68). I could have gone via normal mail (500yen) but decided to be done with it and have a spare for backup.

Shipping took just 2~3 days. Very good communications with Brett over the weekend to make sure it's the right part. Should have gotten my c1000 from them instead! Sadly, pricejapan from whom I got my c1000 didn't even reply to any of my queries of repair although my unit is still under warranty until June!

If I need to get anything in future, my wallet says conics! Eye-wink
Thanks Brett!

PS: If I had sent in my c1000 to pricejapan for SHARP warranty, I think the shipping fees would probably have been 1.5 or 2 times the amount I paid for the 2 ribbons + shipping.

----------------------------------

Oh, point to note ... those with the clam shells, should tighten the screens on the hinges as I noticed mine coming loose after these half year. I think the loose hinges could have inevitably caused the ribbons to have a micro fracture.

So tighten up those screws during your next oil change I say!

[daniel3000]

Oh, point to note ... those with the clam shells, should tighten the screens on the hinges as I noticed mine coming loose after these half year. I think the loose hinges could have inevitably caused the ribbons to have a micro fracture.

So tighten up those screws during your next oil change I say!
[div align=\"right\"][a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=155356\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a][/div]

Interesting! I have about 4 Zauri with loose hinges. They don't hold the screen in place anymore when opened at abt. 110-120 degrees (when 0 degress is closed and abt. 170 degrees rest position fully opened).
It slides back slowly in order to rest suddenly with a loud snap at 170 degrees. This is annoying!
Is this the problem you speak of?
Which screws have to be fastened in order to avoid that?
I once took apart one of these units and did't find screws which are responsible for that.

Thanks
daniel

[tanjian2]

Oh, point to note ... those with the clam shells, should tighten the screens on the hinges as I noticed mine coming loose after these half year. I think the loose hinges could have inevitably caused the ribbons to have a micro fracture.

So tighten up those screws during your next oil change I say!
[div align=\"right\"][a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=155356\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a][/div]

Interesting! I have about 4 Zauri with loose hinges. They don't hold the screen in place anymore when opened at abt. 110-120 degrees (when 0 degress is closed and abt. 170 degrees rest position fully opened).
It slides back slowly in order to rest suddenly with a loud snap at 170 degrees. This is annoying!
Is this the problem you speak of?
Which screws have to be fastened in order to avoid that?
I once took apart one of these units and did't find screws which are responsible for that.

Thanks
daniel
[div align=\"right\"][a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=155388\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a][/div]

I just tightened the two screws which 'appear' when you swivel the screen through 90 degrees (well actually open the screen so it is 90 degrees to the keyboard, then twist it  90 degrees so half it is across the keyboard). There are two tiny Philips head screws recessed in the hinge - tightneing them certainly improved the positioning of my screen.

Thanks for the tip Snappy.

[Antikx]

I'm still trying to find a small enough screwdriver.

[Snappy]

Yes, that's the one that tanjian pointed out on. Turn the screen to 90deg, and you should see two on the hinge and four on either edge of the LCD. There are two further on the two sides (ends) ... but those two just keep the covers in place.

I'll see if I can borrow a camera tomorrow to take some pics.

EDIT: Added a (lousy) picture ... the blurry bright spot is the screws ...

[Capn_Fish]

I'm still trying to find a small enough screwdriver.
[div align=\"right\"][a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=155414\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a][/div]

I borrowed one from a friend just to see what the Z's guts looked like, and I believe he got it from some sort of workstation repair kit.

[speculatrix]

I got my tiny PDA screwdrivers from a specialist shop, very high quality CK ones, designed for taking apart small electronic items. They came with a separate handle and long hexagonal-cross-section shafts shaped into the right bits at the end, harded and toughened.

Also good for repairing wife's spectacle.

[Snappy]

Added a (lousy) pic above.

[louigi600]

Sometimes my C1K powers up again from a suspend with a white screen.
I've strongly suspect this to be more likely to happen when battery is below 50%.

In order to get it working again I need to do a hard reset (remove all power).

Could this have anything to do with the flect cable ?

[HoloVector]

Sometimes my C1K powers up again from a suspend with a white screen.
I've strongly suspect this to be more likely to happen when battery is below 50%.

In order to get it working again I need to do a hard reset (remove all power).

Could this have anything to do with the flect cable ?
[div align=\"right\"][a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=165200\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a][/div]

I used to get slow fades to white screens on my 1000 and 3200s either after resuming or playing around in Kino2 when I was running Cacko.  Like you a reset would clear up the problem.  I don't think it is related to the ribbon cable because I have not run into the problem in various pdaX, OZ and Angstrom builds I have run since then.  I tried the hinge screw tightening on both units but the screw were still tight.

[zedkatuf2]

I used to get slow fades to white screens on my 1000 and 3200s either after resuming or playing around in Kino2 when I was running Cacko.  Like you a reset would clear up the problem.  I don't think it is related to the ribbon cable because I have not run into the problem in various pdaX, OZ and Angstrom builds I have run since then.  I tried the hinge screw tightening on both units but the screw were still tight.
[div align=\"right\"][a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=165233\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a][/div]

I get the slow fade to white when I use my ambicom1100C wlan card; interestingly, the same card freezes my laptop when I type iwconfig...in my case, maybe  the card's firmware version (1.80) is causing the problem....or it could even be a hardware fault with the card.