Author Topic: Stuffing Serial Bluetooth Module Inside C1k Casing (Read 358315 times)

albertr · « **Reply #270 on:** May 04, 2006, 12:42:45 pm »

There's #define in the serial.c file (look at the first few lines of the code). It controls whever CTS/RTS used as GPIO pins. The pin numbers are documented on my page.

It's strange that hardware flow control is not used in BlueZ for Ericsson ROK module. I thought that it's required for H4 UART protocol, but guess I was wrong... Did you try to transfer large amounts of data over BT link?

Sorry to hear that GPIO84 didn't work, I'll try to double-check pin 84 when open my Z next time.
-albertr

Mjolinor · « **Reply #271 on:** May 04, 2006, 12:48:16 pm »

I haven't tried transferring anything over it as yet so I don't know if the handshaking thing will be a problem.

Everything I have read says that handshaking is needed with teh Ericsson module but for sure if I don't disable I get no data transfer on the TX RX lines.

albertr · « **Reply #272 on:** May 04, 2006, 12:50:38 pm »

I would suggest to try some testing with transferring large amounts of data over the bluetooth link before deciding that you can get away without using hardware flow control.
-albertr

Lurker · « **Reply #273 on:** May 22, 2006, 07:46:23 pm »

from Albertr's Zaurus page:

Quote

While ZD1211 chipset supports all 802.11a/b/g freq's and modulations, the driver will work in 802.11b mode only if attached to USB 1.1 bus.

Are there any USB "keychain" dongles with open source drivers that can work in Wireless-G mode on a USB 1.1 bus? Even though the througput would be limited to below Wireless-B speeds, it is still usefull to have Wireless-G capabilities for scanning and G-only access points.

Would a bluetooth module operate at the same speed using btuart vs. USB? Does btuart mode support the same profiles as USB?

Could anyone provide a simplified connection diagram for those who are capable solderers, but do not posses the electronics knowledge? I wish to perform the USB OTG Power Domain and btuart bluetooth mods. The extra power would either go towards the external USB port or an internal wifi module (provided I can make space for one)

speculatrix · « **Reply #274 on:** May 23, 2006, 05:36:00 am »

AlbertR,
I've now received some of the AML bluetooth modules and they are literally wafer thin - maybe slightly less than a millimetre thick. Do you think there's a chance that one could be squeezed into the gap under the CF card in a C3x00?

(assuming you'd buy one without the built-in antenna and run a very fine cable to an antenna fixed to the case)

Paul

albertr · « **Reply #275 on:** May 23, 2006, 10:44:33 am »

Quote

Are there any USB "keychain" dongles with open source drivers that can work in Wireless-G mode on a USB 1.1 bus? Even though the througput would be limited to below Wireless-B speeds, it is still usefull to have Wireless-G capabilities for scanning and G-only access points.

It shouldn't be very difficult to modify ZyDAS's driver to work on b/g even when on USB1,1 bus. How good it would work is a different question. I'm not sure about other g-capable wifi usb chipsets like Ralink's.

Monitoring mode is a bit flaky with ZyDAS, at least with the current drivers.

Quote

Would a bluetooth module operate at the same speed using btuart vs. USB? Does btuart mode support the same profiles as USB?

Using the "de-sharped" serial driver, PXA270 works fine @ 961200 baud. That seems to be more than enough to cover BT 1.1 througput, even with BCSP packets overhead.
If you need 2.0 EDR speeds, you'll have to use usb.

As far as profiles go, they are implemented in modules' HCI firmware and in HCI bluetooth stack, so it's not interface-dependant.

Quote

Could anyone provide a simplified connection diagram for those who are capable solderers, but do not posses the electronics knowledge? I wish to perform the USB OTG Power Domain and btuart bluetooth mods. The extra power would either go towards the external USB port or an internal wifi module (provided I can make space for one)

What diagram you are looking for? For USB OTG power regulator all you need is just to replace one resistor. It's pictured on my page. For BTUART to serial BT module connection just connect TX to TX, RX to RX and if you need hardware flow control - CTS to CTS and RTS to RTS. Also connect VCC and GROUND to power module up. If module has a TTL-level RESET input, you can implement resetting circuit via some GPIO line.
-albertr

albertr · « **Reply #276 on:** May 23, 2006, 10:52:03 am »

Quote

AlbertR,
I've now received some of the AML bluetooth modules and they are literally wafer thin - maybe slightly less than a millimetre thick. Do you think there's a chance that one could be squeezed into the gap under the CF card in a C3x00?

Paul, I don't know since I don't have a C3x00. It might be easier for you to just open yours up and measure its internal spacing. Let us know if it does fit...
-albertr

Lurker · « **Reply #277 on:** May 23, 2006, 03:11:34 pm »

Albertr:
Thanks for the info! I browsed through the zd1211-dev list, and from what I could tell it indeed proved troublesome to enable 802.11g with USB 1.1. However, at this point I would be content to have "only" internal 802.11b and bluetooth.
I do not know how to translate the schematic for controlling power to individual modules. If it is not too much trouble, a diagram that shows the interconnection between modules, power regulator circuit and main board would be best.

albertr · « **Reply #278 on:** May 23, 2006, 03:35:24 pm »

There was a discussion about schemantics a few pages back. I'm not an electric engineer myself, Boris helped with schemantics. Basically, on his picture LOAD means the module itself. You can find GROUND in many places on Zaurus PCB, including OTG connector. However, beware that OTG connector's ground and +5V are protected from spikes with inductors, so some bouncing may occur. Not sure about possible implications, someone with more electrical knowledge would explain it better...

If you change the resistor in OTG power requlator, it can provide 500mA. I replaced the resistor with a 1K one, and it works fine - it has sufficient current for both ZD1211-based wifi and CSR BC02-Ext-based bluetooth modules at the same time. "3.3V" on Boris' picture means GPIO pin that controls the gate (base) of transistor.
-albertr

Lurker · « **Reply #279 on:** May 23, 2006, 04:41:49 pm »

Albertr:
Thanks again! I am now one step closer to attempting this mod. I am not ready to tackle it at this point, but hopefully within the next few weeks. I will post a diagram for approval, just to lessen the chance that I fry the Z. Of course, I would still take full responsibility in the result of failure.

In the meantime, I need to know if anyone is using these mods with OpenZaurus. If not, how difficult would it be to modify the software to work with OZ (2.6 kernel)?
I will be performing these mods on a C3000, so I do not have an empty microdrive space to work with, though there are other potential locations for module(s). However, I may need to attach external patch antennas to the module(s) for routing to the edge of the case of the Zaurus. Does anyone have any experience with this? Is it a simple matter of cutting or otherwise disconnecting the module's PCB antenna and soldering the antenna cable in its place?

Mjolinor · « **Reply #280 on:** May 23, 2006, 04:50:10 pm »

I used the 802.11 antenna from inside the screen of a broken laptop. They are all the same, a thin plastic PCB, like ribbon cable and it already has the coax soldered to it.

Lurker · « **Reply #281 on:** May 23, 2006, 05:20:16 pm »

Mjolinor:
Nice! Where on the Zaurus did you place the antenna? Have you done any before & after tests regarding reception? Also, I don't suppose the length of coax matters at such short distances(?)

Mjolinor · « **Reply #282 on:** May 23, 2006, 05:30:18 pm »

Not done any testing and I didnt actually use the coax. I soldered the antenna to the bluetooth unit directly, they are only as thick as a piece of paper.

I tried to find a pic on the net but I can't Ill take a picture of one of these tomorrow

speculatrix · « **Reply #283 on:** May 25, 2006, 04:39:59 pm »

Quote

Quote
AlbertR,
I've now received some of the AML bluetooth modules and they are literally wafer thin - maybe slightly less than a millimetre thick. Do you think there's a chance that one could be squeezed into the gap under the CF card in a C3x00?

Paul, I don't know since I don't have a C3x00. It might be easier for you to just open yours up and measure its internal spacing. Let us know if it does fit...
-albertr
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I don't have a 3x00, I think I'd rather have an AlbertR-special-1000 with bt and wifi than a 3x00 without.. so I was hoping to establish whether such a thing were possible!

albertr · « **Reply #284 on:** May 25, 2006, 06:38:24 pm »

Ahh, sorry, I didn't know that you don't have a C3xxx... Anyways, with SD/MMC driver that supports large cards and price of 4GB cards now under $100, I really don't see any point of getting any C3xxx over C1000. In fact, my modded C1000 is almost perfect, my only wish would be 128MB of RAM.
-albertr

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Author Topic: Stuffing Serial Bluetooth Module Inside C1k Casing (Read 358315 times)