I download my maps here.
http://gps.pazu.info/It's rather complicated, but there are instructions in the top-right corner.
I use firefox on my windows box, once I have a map, I right-click and save it,
then copy it to the proper directory for qpegps on my Zaurus.
Also there are code numbers displayed, in the middle of the page,
that you have to input into a config file for qpegps,
in order to enable the downloaded map to be displayed in qpegps.
Jon